UKH Hills - 'Yosemite Wall'

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

Peregrine restriction: Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period.

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

Last update: 23/05/2023

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22m.

Rockfax Description
A classic line that features sustained undercutting. Follow the steep right-facing overlaps with some powerful moves and a great hands-off rest. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , 28 Decent Sport Routes , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Rock cats getting strong , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Lime Time , Quarantine Comeback Yorkshire Psyche , 2021 Ticklist , Big Ron routes for mortals , Another lifelist?

Feedback Always Hide βeta

User	Date		Notes
JacobHarmer	7 Apr	Show βeta βeta: Pulled off a side pull below the crux traverse - don't think it is one people use so shouldn't effect the route. Rock may be a little unstable still after winter thawing.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Pulled off a side pull below the crux traverse - don't think it is one people use so shouldn't effect the route. Rock may be a little unstable still after winter thawing.
Moonbeam	10 May, 2021	Show βeta βeta: The redpoint crux, for me, became the moves beneath the redirect chain. These moves never felt too difficult in isolation but became super burly when linking from the ground. I make the hanging chain clip off a hold to the left of the obvious two-handed undercut. My left hand is on a crappy square block with my arm fully extended. Using two very good foot edges, I can sort of cam my body in here and clip with the right hand. This saves so much power for the next moves. The following moves, via the deep two-handed undercut, up the two wide pinches and into the kneebar were the redpoint crux for me. The key is to build up the feet so the throw into the large overlapping pinch holds is controlled and within reach.
Show beta βeta: The redpoint crux, for me, became the moves beneath the redirect chain. These moves never felt too difficult in isolation but became super burly when linking from the ground. I make the hanging chain clip off a hold to the left of the obvious two-handed undercut. My left hand is on a crappy square block with my arm fully extended. Using two very good foot edges, I can sort of cam my body in here and clip with the right hand. This saves so much power for the next moves. The following moves, via the deep two-handed undercut, up the two wide pinches and into the kneebar were the redpoint crux for me. The key is to build up the feet so the throw into the large overlapping pinch holds is controlled and within reach.
Moonbeam	11 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Struggled clipping the first redirect/hanging chain. Powered out and ended up making a right circus of it. Must get stronger! And braver!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Struggled clipping the first redirect/hanging chain. Powered out and ended up making a right circus of it. Must get stronger! And braver!
OllieBarker	1 Sep, 2019	Show βeta βeta: 2nd to strip	βeta?
Show beta βeta: 2nd to strip
daimon	16 Jan, 2003	Show βeta βeta: Probably one of the best routes of its grade in Yorkshire /World. It is totaly sport now. Long and Pumpy but grate to bag. You can get a bit lost these days as there are lots of bolts floting around. A clear marked Topo is needed.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Probably one of the best routes of its grade in Yorkshire /World. It is totaly sport now. Long and Pumpy but grate to bag. You can get a bit lost these days as there are lots of bolts floting around. A clear marked Topo is needed.
Ricardo	15 Jul, 2002	Show βeta βeta: Never found the hands off rest! Forget the wires though - no need.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Never found the hands off rest! Forget the wires though - no need.