Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

32m.

Rockfax Description
The first section of Totally Free has become established as one of the best and most popular routes of its grade in the country. Start up Something Stupid and keep going up the huge groove and its right wall passing a good shake-out midway. Moving rightwards from the midway shake-out to finish up Dudley Do Good is Groovey Baby, 8a. © Rockfax

FA. John Dunne 1988. On-sight flashed by Simon Nadin in 1990..

Ticklists

Yorkshire Big Three , Yorkshire Limestone Graded List , UK 8a and up , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Pyramid to 8a+ , Another lifelist? , Power of Climbing , Sport life

Feedback

User Date Notes
Owen Diba 5 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Big chunk came off the undercuts above the half way lower off 04/09/22. Doesn't effect their use as a handhold but I was using it as a really good knee bar rest for right leg. Still works as a left knee bar but nowhere near as good.
Show beta
βeta: Big chunk came off the undercuts above the half way lower off 04/09/22. Doesn't effect their use as a handhold but I was using it as a really good knee bar rest for right leg. Still works as a left knee bar but nowhere near as good.
Owen Diba 5 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Big chunk came off the undercuts above the half way lower off 04/09/22.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Big chunk came off the undercuts above the half way lower off 04/09/22.

Logged Ascents

73 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Malham Cove

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 54 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 8b
Mid 8b
Low 8b
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Raindogs (no chain grab)

Grade: 8a+ ***
(Malham Cove)

Loading Notifications...