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76m, 2 pitches. From Dave Musgrove:

The original line climbed by Barrie Biven and Trevor Peck in 1959 climbed
the wall in 3 pitches. The first pitch was short from the right side of the
beck up to the catwalk. The second started around about where Free and Even
Easier does now but climbed up and leftwards through the bulges to the tree
on the upper ledge on the left. The third pitch took a direct line roughly
on the line of what is now Local Hero.

In the early 1960s the second pitch was straightened out and better bolts
were added starting further left where Chiselling the dragon goes now. The
route was very popular in the 60s and 70s but the short first pitch became
redundant and was rarely climbed. This route became known as the

Barrie Biven, Trevor Peck 1959.


Aid climbing


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High A3
Mid A3
Low A3
High A2
Mid A2
Low A2
High A1
Mid A1
Low A1
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Superdirectissima

Grade: A2 ***
(Malham Cove)