12m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most popular 8a routes. Sustained climbing with a draining move to the belay. You only get the full tick if you grab the belay without a quick-draw in place! © Rockfax
FA. Dave Kenyon 1986.
Ticklists
THE classic old skool 8a's, World Graded List, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, 28 Decent Sport Routes, UK 8a and up, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Northern Limestone for Catalans, Yorkshire Limestone top 50
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| meggies | 9 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: If House Martins are nesting on the route - go and climb something else! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If House Martins are nesting on the route - go and climb something else! |
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| Ged Desforges | 23 Jul, 2007 |
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βeta: Surely not using the hold out right near the top is merely an 8a variant? It's hardly off route. Eliminate not to use it. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Surely not using the hold out right near the top is merely an 8a variant? It's hardly off route. Eliminate not to use it. |
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| Andy Farnell | 18 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: Ignore the polish (it doesn't affect the climbing) and enjoy the moves. Brilliant from the floor to the belay. Make sure you've got enough in reserve when you get to the last clip as it's not over till its over. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Ignore the polish (it doesn't affect the climbing) and enjoy the moves. Brilliant from the floor to the belay. Make sure you've got enough in reserve when you get to the last clip as it's not over till its over. |
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| John Cooke | 5 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: This should be at the top of every aspiring 8a climbers wishlist. A classic power endurance route with no desperately hard stopper moves, it just keeps coming at you! Quickly clip that power sapping last draw and power on up to the belay. Definitive 8a. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: This should be at the top of every aspiring 8a climbers wishlist. A classic power endurance route with no desperately hard stopper moves, it just keeps coming at you! Quickly clip that power sapping last draw and power on up to the belay. Definitive 8a. |
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| teddy | 25 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: The undercut 'squeeze' for the right hand which you can clip the last bolt from before reaching back up left for the last few crux moves is definitely on line. The jug you refer to is even further right and (I agree) off limits. The superdirect line which misses out this squeeze is 'harder' 8a. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The undercut 'squeeze' for the right hand which you can clip the last bolt from before reaching back up left for the last few crux moves is definitely on line. The jug you refer to is even further right and (I agree) off limits. The superdirect line which misses out this squeeze is 'harder' 8a. |
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Route of Interest
Defcon 3
Grade: 8a ***(Gordale Scar)