42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.
2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979.

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Hard Rock 2020, Yorkshire Limestone top 50, Hard Rock 2020, 3* Extreme Northern Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
phatlad 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet!
βeta?
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βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet!
kevin stephens 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder
βeta?
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βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder
kevin stephens 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches
Ged Desforges 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon
βeta?
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βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon
Ricardo 15 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 28
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Lyncher

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Gordale Scar)
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