A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang. © Rockfax
FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979.
Hard Rock, Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Hard Rock 2020, Yorkshire Limestone top 50, Hard Rock 2020, 3* Extreme Northern Trad
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