A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang. © Rockfax
FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979.
Hard Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Hard Rock 2020 , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Hard Rock 2020 , 3* Extreme Northern Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs
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