UKH

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine historical landmark with a superb top pitch. A point of aid is usually needed to make the route more balanced.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb boldly to a ledge then more easily up rightwards to a bulge. Traverse left then move up the corner past trees to a belay in the cave. This pitch is now dirty and loose so it is better to start up Carnage Left-hand.
2) 5b (6b free), 20m. Move right and use the ageing peg and a sling to pull through the roof. Climb the wall to a break then step right and move up to the famous mantelshelf ledge. Pass this to gain another break then swing right to finish up a small groove. The Blinds Finish takes the groove above the mantelshelf ledge. Should the aid peg disappear then you can climb the tree to get around the overhang. © Rockfax

FA. Tony and Robin Barley (2pts) 1965. FFA. Ron Fawcett 1979.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Hard Rock 2020 , Yorkshire Limestone top 50 , Hard Rock 2020 , 3* Extreme Northern Trad , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs

Feedback

User Date Notes
phatlad 30 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: avoid pitch one!!!!!! unless you lead E5 and are happy on loose hold with no gear and muddy feet!
kevin stephens 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Also thin crack to right mentioned as alternative start also looks serious and felt much harder
kevin stephens 31 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First pitch very serious, no gear, creaky undercuts over bulge, then run out continues a very long way before eventually reacing nuts and very old peg, then demanding traverse left which is very dirty (at present), loose holds and again very run out before reacing the tree. I may have been having a bad day but I thought E3 5b. At least I can now enjoy Mullato and CLH without repeating pitches
GDes 16 Jun, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: start up carnage LH-much better. top pitch is 5c i reckon
Ricardo 15 Jul, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Peg looks fine to me on P2. 6b is about right. First pitch was covered in mud - tried to do it but lowered off. Do yourself a favour and start up either Carnage LH or better Mullato P1

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Crossbones

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Malham Cove)

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