UKH

42m.

Rockfax Description
This fine little expedition follows the huge groove found in the eastern edge of the Tower. A great line, terrific positions - and at an amenable grade. Split it at one third height or lead the route in one almighty pitch. Reach it either via the front of the Tower, or, at high tide or in rough seas, use the descending terraces at the back of the Tower to reach it. To retreat from the finishing ridge, scramble across the very top of the Tower and then down directly to the access col. © Rockfax

FA. J.Rees-Jones, John Cleare Mar/1967.

Ticklists

Orange Spot Pembroke

Feedback

User Date Notes
eldre070 21 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Stayed left of the short groove at the top as the arête seemed a nice (if not a little loose) place to be. It’s a great long pitch on the roughest rock imaginable. Do it. No ab needed.
βeta?
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βeta: Stayed left of the short groove at the top as the arête seemed a nice (if not a little loose) place to be. It’s a great long pitch on the roughest rock imaginable. Do it. No ab needed.
Kev Webster 31 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Don't get caught by the tide
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don't get caught by the tide
ipfreely 16 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Led P2, superb hero climbing on the roughest, sharpest, grippiest rock I’ve ever climbed, no real loose rock in the corner, there is 1 sideways parsons nose block that I left alone just in case. The scramble down the col, right then left is easy, but there is a small spike in the col should you want a confidence rope
Show beta
βeta: Led P2, superb hero climbing on the roughest, sharpest, grippiest rock I’ve ever climbed, no real loose rock in the corner, there is 1 sideways parsons nose block that I left alone just in case. The scramble down the col, right then left is easy, but there is a small spike in the col should you want a confidence rope
Greeny8053 15 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Top 1/3 VERY loose!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top 1/3 VERY loose!
neuromancer 16 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose rock throughout. Less green as you get higher. Little polish and well protected.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose rock throughout. Less green as you get higher. Little polish and well protected.
CasualLime 8 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Don’t get tempted left onto the arête of the second pitch, it’s very loose. Stay right in the corner.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Don’t get tempted left onto the arête of the second pitch, it’s very loose. Stay right in the corner.

Logged Ascents

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High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 101
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 89
Votes cast 91
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Blue Sky

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Saddle Head)
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