UKH

Climb the SW side of the 'Needle'

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Connoisseur's Classic Rock , West Country Climbs , Sub Extreme South West Sea Stacks , Climbs To Do On Lundy , Lundy , Ultimate Sea Stack , 2020/21 Trips

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User Date Notes
acrawley 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort.
Show beta
βeta: Super route on the needle but somewhat bold for the grade. Once around the arete there is long run-out before gear. More like HVS 4b for the seriousness? I decided to leave a sling and maillon on the top as the existing tat is badly corroded/worn and couldn't be trusted for the abseil. Initial access to the needle is somewhat problematic. We opted for an abseil from almost opposite the pinnacle (NOT near the rock fall). It was relatively stable and straightforward but an 85m abseil rope is required (100m even better). After the needle we exited via Punchbowl arete on Punchbowl cliff (S) which involves an easy rock-hop at low/mid tide. It's an ok route but has a dirty and loose top-out before a long grass slope to a small outcrop of rock on the left (looking up) for the belay. The belay takes a medium cam and a couple of nuts. This exit definitely needs the full length of a 60m rope (we had about 1m spare) All-in-all a fabulous day out and well worth the effort.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 15
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Devil's Slide

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Lundy)

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