Restricted Access

Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.

A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.

Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 March to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions on Lundy fall into three categories:

- Unrestricted (year round access)

- Restricted from 31 March - 14 August

- Restricted from 31 March - 15 September

Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.

Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions. 

Unrestricted 

  • Damocles Buttress (pg 29)
  • Sunset Wall (pg 81)
  • Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South (pg 102), First Buttress North (pg 105) & Second Buttress North (pg 111)
  • Flying Buttress Main Cliff: from The Exorcist (pg 128) to Flying Dutchman (pg 136) inclusive. Access to this area must be via the steps down to the Battery. Do not walk direct across the slope above Battery Cliff/St Patrick’s Buttress. Please also take care to stay close to the edge on the easy way down to ensure nesting sea birds are not disturbed. Lundy is one of only two locations in England where Storm Petrels nest, hiding in walls when they come to land at night. This site is new and any disturbance in 2022 will lead to closure in 2023.
  • The Earthquake (pg 153)
  • Picnic Bay Cliff (pg 195)
  • The Devil’s Slide Area: Narrow Zawn (pg 243) to The Fortress (pg 278)
  • Torrey Canyon Cliff: Penitence (pg 289) to Blow Out (pg 290) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • Headline Promontory: The Column (pg 316) Margin (pg 321) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • The East Coast Quarries (pg 354-359)

Restricted 31 March - 14 August

  • Kistvaen Buttress (pg 29) to Sunset Promontory (pg 97) inclusive
  • St Patrick’s Buttress (pg 112) to Battery Cliff (pg 124) inclusive
  • Flying Buttress from Prenumbra (pg 136) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
  • Dihedral Zawn (pg 197) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
  • St John’s Stone (pg 282) to Gannet’s Buttress (pg 360) and Gannet’s Rock (pg 362) inclusive

Restricted 31 March - 15 September

  • Black Jack Zawn, Lifeboat Buttress & Jemima Buttress (pg 125)
  • Flying Buttress: Prenumbra to The Black Pig inclusive (pg 136 – 138)
  • Devil’s Tower area (pg 162) & Big Zawn (pg 208)
  • Cormorant Zawn (pg 335)
  • Storm Zawn (pg 336) & North Light Channel (pg 327)
  • Gannets’ Rock & Gannets’ Buttress (pg 354)

These restrictions are subject to constant review and it is important that climbers contact the Warden for updates before your visit or on arrival to the Island.

[unrestricted]

Ticklists

Littlejohn South West Climbs , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.)

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Call to Arms

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Sanctuary Wall)

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