The climbing on Stair Hole, Dungy Head and Durdle Door all fall within an area of land mapped as Open Access under CRoW. Climbing is a permitted activity under the CRoW legislation so there is a legal right of access to all three areas for climbers, walkers and members of the public.
A climbers code of conduct has been developed to help address concerns about conflict between climbers, members of the public and nesting birds - please follow the guidelines closely. Please take a discrete approach to climbing in the area which periodically attracts negative attention through tombstoning and the resulting injuries and rescues. Climbing and DWS are clearly different and permitted here, but can be caught up in media stories about tombstoning, so make an effort to keep a low profile so as not to encourage members of the public to have a go.
For safety reasons, there is no public access to the military ranges east of Lulworth Cove (which are used for live firing), other than on days when the ranges are open due to firing not taking place and even then only the marked path can be used. This means that no climbing can be accessed within the ranges at any time as it would necessitate walking off of the marked path.
Reason: Nesting Birds
Protected birds have been known to nest on crags in the area (in particular Dungy Head) in the past. Please observe any on site signage regarding restrictions if the birds do return.
Rockfax Description
6a, S0, 80m. A good circular traverse and a fun introduction to the area. Start on the beach and head round the west tip of the Stair Hole Promontory. Continue into the West Cave at (or very near) sea level, to emerge back on the beach. Some say it climbs even better in reverse? © Rockfax
FSA. Jon Williams 23/May/1990.
Dorset weekender , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Dorset DWS progression , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , DWS200 - Dream Targets up to 7b+ , LSMC to do , Top 25 UKC South West VS/HVS
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
ajhclimbing | 28 Jul, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route better with Mr Lynn taking a dunk! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route better with Mr Lynn taking a dunk! |
||||
OneBeardedWalker | 24 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fell off on high move through cave | ||
Show beta
βeta: Fell off on high move through cave |
||||
RayManta | 2 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wear secure trunks. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Wear secure trunks. |
||||
django | 30 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure where we went wrong but the last section back to the beach felt hard! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Not sure where we went wrong but the last section back to the beach felt hard! |
||||
Alex More | 27 Aug, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: This one climbs better if you reverse it, the moves are slightly harder heading out through the cave first ... to the sea and beyond! | ||
Show beta
βeta: This one climbs better if you reverse it, the moves are slightly harder heading out through the cave first ... to the sea and beyond! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)