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30m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning, pumpy wall climb that fires up the face on generally-good holds. The pegs on the route are fast deteriorating but alternative gear options are available. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks.
Move up the cracks and then head diagonally right across the wall on good holds to another left-trending line of quartz cracks, good spike runner above. Climb the cracks to a wider section and follow this to below some thin cracks that head up the wall. Climb the wall and thin cracks, past pegs, to a short thin crack that heads slightly right to a break. Follow the break left to a niche and the top just above. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 16.5.86 16/May/1986.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Good E4s, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Billg's 2017 sweepstake list, World Class Britain & Ireland

Feedback

User Date Notes
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Failed on this due to terminal pump. Wasn't overkeen on the rock quality either. Compare this to, say, Resurrection: Res has perfect rock, obvious gear, two mega-rests and turns slightly slabby to finish. Fay has sandy rock for most of it, spaced and sometimes funny gear, one shake-out too low to be of use, and turns slightly overhanging to finish. Hard, I think.
βeta?
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βeta: Failed on this due to terminal pump. Wasn't overkeen on the rock quality either. Compare this to, say, Resurrection: Res has perfect rock, obvious gear, two mega-rests and turns slightly slabby to finish. Fay has sandy rock for most of it, spaced and sometimes funny gear, one shake-out too low to be of use, and turns slightly overhanging to finish. Hard, I think.
NuclearNev 1 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: This is a pumpy route and seems about the same difficulty as Wraith to me. I thought I was feeling strong till I got on it and got pumped to oblivion. I think the 3 pegs together should hold a fall, and it is possible to place additional wires and friends to back them up if your forearms let you!
βeta?
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βeta: This is a pumpy route and seems about the same difficulty as Wraith to me. I thought I was feeling strong till I got on it and got pumped to oblivion. I think the 3 pegs together should hold a fall, and it is possible to place additional wires and friends to back them up if your forearms let you!
feilx 26 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Harder than some other e4s at the crag, but still fair for the grade. Pegs can be backed up. I found it a bit sandy/dusty for a 3 star route, good never the less though.
βeta?
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βeta: Harder than some other e4s at the crag, but still fair for the grade. Pegs can be backed up. I found it a bit sandy/dusty for a 3 star route, good never the less though.
The Jazz Butcher 26 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The gear is fine at this grade. If you are experienced with different rock types, then finding good placements is not a problem. As Dave Kerr says, Fay gets E4 as it is a bit pumpy. The section after the top peg (which can be backed up) is slightly run out, but nothing to worry about.
βeta?
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βeta: The gear is fine at this grade. If you are experienced with different rock types, then finding good placements is not a problem. As Dave Kerr says, Fay gets E4 as it is a bit pumpy. The section after the top peg (which can be backed up) is slightly run out, but nothing to worry about.
DaveHK 14 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Gear seemed pretty bomber to me. Hanging around to place it is what makes it E4!
βeta?
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βeta: Gear seemed pretty bomber to me. Hanging around to place it is what makes it E4!
Dave Musgrove 2 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: The pegs wern't too bad last year. And most can be backed up with reasonable gear. Still worth E4 however just for the sustained nature of the climbing. Superb! (P.S. Al, if it's any consolation my son led me up it.) Dave
βeta?
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βeta: The pegs wern't too bad last year. And most can be backed up with reasonable gear. Still worth E4 however just for the sustained nature of the climbing. Superb! (P.S. Al, if it's any consolation my son led me up it.) Dave
Al Evans 2 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Super climb, but horror of horrors we top roped it because the pegs were so bad, probably acceptable pro at E4, but really they should be replaced.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Super climb, but horror of horrors we top roped it because the pegs were so bad, probably acceptable pro at E4, but really they should be replaced.

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America

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Carn Gowla)