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20m.

Rockfax Description
An immaculate pitch on the best rock that Sharpnose has to offer. Start at a low ledge a few metres right of the arete. Low in the grade.

From the right-hand end of the ledge, make a series of technical moves up a thin crack on the right to better holds. Continue up the wall via another crack to a quartz break that heads diagonally left to the top. Follow this line boldly to the top. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 24.4.86 24/Apr/1986.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Trad climbs for sport climbers, West Country Climbs, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Billg's 2017 sweepstake list, Extreme 2018, Best of the rest and the ones that got away

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 29 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat and wire replaced 26.7.20 (there’s also a thread and an old peg). A number 5 wire is available as well.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Abseil tat and wire replaced 26.7.20 (there’s also a thread and an old peg). A number 5 wire is available as well.
alaan 24 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Harder and more sustained than Diamond Smiles but obvious climbing. Still, even at its relatively modest, by Sharpnose standards, height of 20m this was very pumpy (for me at least)!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Harder and more sustained than Diamond Smiles but obvious climbing. Still, even at its relatively modest, by Sharpnose standards, height of 20m this was very pumpy (for me at least)!
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Extremely enjoyable and very steady. Good rock and spaced but mercifully obvious gear make this a reassuring lead. The finish is not at all bold! Nice wall climbing the whole way. I don't really understand Sharpnose grades but this felt easy.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Extremely enjoyable and very steady. Good rock and spaced but mercifully obvious gear make this a reassuring lead. The finish is not at all bold! Nice wall climbing the whole way. I don't really understand Sharpnose grades but this felt easy.
ejected 12 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Path, bomber gear all the way to the top, no run out no hard moves, super cruisey climbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Path, bomber gear all the way to the top, no run out no hard moves, super cruisey climbing
The Jazz Butcher 23 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice climbing. Good, but hard won protection make this an exciting route. Just don't do it in the wet and with a very close rising tide as we did. One of those, "Oh the rock will be drier higher up, the tides not coming in too fast!" Wrong on accounts!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really nice climbing. Good, but hard won protection make this an exciting route. Just don't do it in the wet and with a very close rising tide as we did. One of those, "Oh the rock will be drier higher up, the tides not coming in too fast!" Wrong on accounts!

Logged Ascents

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 80
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 77
Votes cast 76
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Pounding Heart

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Pentire Point)