Rockfax Description
Tough moves on monos and crimps lead to the break where still tricky moves follow the left slanting arete to a shared lower-off. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Left of Core Values. Tough moves on monos and crimps lead to the break where still tricky moves follow the left slanting arete to a shared lower-off. Not sure about the grade, may be harder.

John Leonard 26/Feb/2021.

Ticklists

Portland

Feedback

User Date Notes
alexia.coburn 27 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely route, although very eventful. Really sketchy start and a chance of decking until 3rd clip. Luckily managed to lead first try to strip the route so Adam didn\'t have to do it again. Was a toprope between Adam and my lead where Aedan encountered a cave spider that ran at his hand. Certainly added to the adrenaline when I had to go next. Forgot to put my cowtail in at the top as a result of the panic and struggled to work out how to clip the rope through the lockers on top of the quickdraw I\'d placed at the top while shaking. Adam then proceeded to lower me onto my cowtail as I was trying to take it out after I\'d said take... and then I refused to go near the spider\'s hole trying to get the quickdraws back. Overall, a good climb, just watch out for the feisty little shit in a hole. Luckily going what is probably the intended direction avoids it enough on the way up. But you have to swing past it on the way down after taking out first clip... there was a lot of shouting and stressed noises on this route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lovely route, although very eventful. Really sketchy start and a chance of decking until 3rd clip. Luckily managed to lead first try to strip the route so Adam didn't have to do it again. Was a toprope between Adam and my lead where Aedan encountered a cave spider that ran at his hand. Certainly added to the adrenaline when I had to go next. Forgot to put my cowtail in at the top as a result of the panic and struggled to work out how to clip the rope through the lockers on top of the quickdraw I'd placed at the top while shaking. Adam then proceeded to lower me onto my cowtail as I was trying to take it out after I'd said take... and then I refused to go near the spider's hole trying to get the quickdraws back. Overall, a good climb, just watch out for the feisty little shit in a hole. Luckily going what is probably the intended direction avoids it enough on the way up. But you have to swing past it on the way down after taking out first clip... there was a lot of shouting and stressed noises on this route

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Ground Up
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
To Wish the Impossible

Grade: 7a ***
(Blacknor South)

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