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Rockfax Description
A very sustained route that has a good deal of excellent climbing, although the protection, from numerous ageing pegs, should be treated with caution. Start left of a tree at the base of the wall.
1) 6a, 27m. Climb sloping holds boldly to a vegetated diagonal-break and a peg above it. Move left below the peg, then climb a pocket-line to a thin crack, peg. Move up the crack to an open groove and ascend it boldly to a bolt and peg-belay on a slab.
2) 6a, 27m. Follow thin cracks rightwards to a small ledge from where bold moves access a ledge on the left and a medium size cam placement. Make hard moves to a poor peg and traverse rightwards below it to holds that gain a peg. Continue to another peg from where hard moves past a further peg end at a blank slab. Climb a thin flake up on the left to easier ground and a traverse rightwards to a bolted belay. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A brilliant climb, but which relies heavily on some ageing peg runners and has the odd bit of brittle rock - hence suggested current status 2** (2018 SD guide book).

(if time permits, likely to receive some moderator attention in late 2020 or 2021 to try and revive the 3*** status)

N White 11/Jul/1986.


Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist


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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 13
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Anarchy Arete (Right)

Grade: E4 5c ***