UKH

53m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The centre of the huge sweep of 'boilerplate' slabs provides some exquisite slab climbing. Start directly beneath the smoothest part of the face, just to the right of a small tree.

1) 5c, 30m. Boulder up past some pink stains to a good peg in a thin diagonal break. Go right to another peg, before climbing leftwards to a shallow niche, then on to a large vegetated break just above. Move right 2m, and climb the wall above a short way, before traversing left, past a peg, to gain a thin, intermittent crack-line. Follow this to a difficult sequence just below the belay ledge. Bolt belay.
2) 5c, 23m. Climb up rightwards from the belay to a ledge, slightly loose. Move up to an undercut flake. Take this leftwards, then follow the steep, fingery wall to another flake crack on the left. Climb more easily to a bolted belay/abseil station. Either move right to the descent path or make a 45m abseil to the ground. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn 1973.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK , Littlejohn South West Climbs , West Country Climbs , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Moving to Devon , South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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User Date Notes
Martgib 5 Oct Show βeta
βeta: Watch for loose / snappy rock on the hard moves above second belay. The single bolt at the belay should be monitored, as it looks like the rock surface just below has been damaged and the hanger spins. It can be backed up with a good nut behind and left. Important as if the leader were to come off on P2 and the fixed gear were to pull, it could be a big fall onto the belay with a (potentially deteriotating) bolt and rusty peg belay. Could do with a decent two bolt belay in my opinion...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Watch for loose / snappy rock on the hard moves above second belay. The single bolt at the belay should be monitored, as it looks like the rock surface just below has been damaged and the hanger spins. It can be backed up with a good nut behind and left. Important as if the leader were to come off on P2 and the fixed gear were to pull, it could be a big fall onto the belay with a (potentially deteriotating) bolt and rusty peg belay. Could do with a decent two bolt belay in my opinion...

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 41
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 35
Votes cast 37
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dreadnought

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Berry Head - The Old Redoubt)

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