The centre of the huge sweep of 'boilerplate' slabs provides some exquisite slab-climbing. Start directly beneath the smoothest part of the face, just to the right of a small tree.1) 5c, 30m. Move up past some pink stains to a good peg in a thin diagonal break. Go right to another peg, before climbing leftwards to a shallow niche, then a large vegetated break just above. Move right 2 metres, and climb the wall above a short way, before traversing left, past a peg, to gain a thin, intermittent crack-line. Follow this to a difficult sequence just below the belay-ledge.2) 5c, 23m. Climb up rightwards from the belay to a ledge, slightly loose. Move up to an undercut flake. Take this leftwards, then follow the steep, fingery wall to another flake-crack on the left. Climb more easily to a bolt-belay. Either move right to the descent path or make a 45m abseil to the ground. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A regional classic, and a climb which provides evidence that mid. extreme trad. climbs in Torquay can still attract a few punters...
P Littlejohn (with var. start) 1973.
Best slab climbs of the UK, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Moving to Devon, South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), The Devonman Cometh- Living in Exeter Top200.
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents