UKH

250m. No description has been contributed for this climb.

J H B Bell and N Forsyth 24/Jul/1941.

Ticklists

Classic Rock , Ultimate Scottish Rock , Classic Rock Climbs of Great Britain by Bill Birkett , Scottish Rock Climbs **** , In the footsteps of the Cairngorm Tigers , Scottish Classic Rock , Scotland's Mountain Ridges by Dan Bailey , Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , The Baron's Bucket List , The Big Easys , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , RGU challange list , Scottish Rock Benchmarks , Libby Peter's VS Hit List , Mountain Rock , Garry Latter, Scottish Ticklist up to VS , STAUMC Ticklist , Cairngorm Classic Rock Challenge , Must climb at crags , RGU Shelterstone , 4 Star Scottish rock , Carrotte's summer sends (multi pitch edition) , Dan's Scottish Summer Hopefuls , A.P's summer , Summer Climbing Trip , Consolidation Easy Long Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
doz 14 Sep Show βeta
βeta: Pitch one...three foot by one foot block just out of the awkward, chockstone chimney on the small rhs ledge.....looks well bedded but has become dangerously loose....be careful!
Show beta
βeta: Pitch one...three foot by one foot block just out of the awkward, chockstone chimney on the small rhs ledge.....looks well bedded but has become dangerously loose....be careful!
RobEdwards 10 Jun Show βeta
βeta: The sketch in classic rock is incorrect and shows the start much higher up the gully than it actually is. If you go up this corner expect to retreat via in situ tat or an old peg. The real route starts much lower, 40m down the gully
Show beta
βeta: The sketch in classic rock is incorrect and shows the start much higher up the gully than it actually is. If you go up this corner expect to retreat via in situ tat or an old peg. The real route starts much lower, 40m down the gully
rockstott 11 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The large (car sized) Boulder that forms the right hand side of the ‘sentry box’ somehow swivels slightly. I only noticed once in the sentry box and whilst belaying noticed it moved about an inch or so back and forth. I didn’t notice what was beneath or around it, or how well supported from below it is but it would be worth noting that and commenting further if anyone has any info. Other than it swivelling, it’d be far too big to move but very disconcerting nonetheless!
Show beta
βeta: The large (car sized) Boulder that forms the right hand side of the ‘sentry box’ somehow swivels slightly. I only noticed once in the sentry box and whilst belaying noticed it moved about an inch or so back and forth. I didn’t notice what was beneath or around it, or how well supported from below it is but it would be worth noting that and commenting further if anyone has any info. Other than it swivelling, it’d be far too big to move but very disconcerting nonetheless!
wolfiex 20 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Now graded a HS in scottish rock. A sustained S climb with some (isolated) funky moves - namely a polished slopery rockover using a wet fist jam off an exposed knife-edge in the penultimate pitch (approaching HVS difficulty). Can be climbed in short pitches 30m but better with a 50m single. Also a cam graveyard, often placed slightly off route.
Show beta
βeta: Now graded a HS in scottish rock. A sustained S climb with some (isolated) funky moves - namely a polished slopery rockover using a wet fist jam off an exposed knife-edge in the penultimate pitch (approaching HVS difficulty). Can be climbed in short pitches 30m but better with a 50m single. Also a cam graveyard, often placed slightly off route.
Mamsusthegoat 7 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Big flake on pitch 3 is still very hollow and should be treated with caution.
Show beta
βeta: Big flake on pitch 3 is still very hollow and should be treated with caution.
maxf 26 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Building on previous feedback: No snow or access difficulties 25 July Loose flake on p3 easily avoidable. Not much harder without it. Hollow blocks on rightward traverse as per "Scottish Mountain Ridges" description but nothing deadly. 50m pitches as per Scottish Mountain Ridges" description involves a lot of rope drag. Possible with long runners and some tactical run outs- but less experienced leaders may wish to shorten pitches.
Show beta
βeta: Building on previous feedback: No snow or access difficulties 25 July Loose flake on p3 easily avoidable. Not much harder without it. Hollow blocks on rightward traverse as per "Scottish Mountain Ridges" description but nothing deadly. 50m pitches as per Scottish Mountain Ridges" description involves a lot of rope drag. Possible with long runners and some tactical run outs- but less experienced leaders may wish to shorten pitches.
IainMunro 11 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Some very loose rock on pitch 3, test every handhold before you commit. Would be worth belaying below the crest at the end of pitch 2 to stay out the fall line
Show beta
βeta: Some very loose rock on pitch 3, test every handhold before you commit. Would be worth belaying below the crest at the end of pitch 2 to stay out the fall line
yamithrain 7 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Carrying ice axes was quite useful to access the start of the route.
Show beta
βeta: Carrying ice axes was quite useful to access the start of the route.
jamesnchlsn 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Avoid being mislead by lots of insitu gear in wrong chimney (above the actual start)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Avoid being mislead by lots of insitu gear in wrong chimney (above the actual start)
alisoncraig94 2 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: As others have said, the loose flake on pitch 3 remains attached, for now. Avoiding using it makes the move a little harder and that section a little more sustained.
Show beta
βeta: As others have said, the loose flake on pitch 3 remains attached, for now. Avoiding using it makes the move a little harder and that section a little more sustained.
olivertwist 5 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route. The only climbing pair in Lochnagar. It rained for about 30 mins but the route dries off very quickly. Due to very little traffic in 2020 there was some lichen on the slabby sections, when it was wet these became pretty slippery. Excellent exposure but always with protection. Did it in approach shoes and felt a bit stiff for S (only for a couple of moves). Scottish Rock does now grade it a HS.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route. The only climbing pair in Lochnagar. It rained for about 30 mins but the route dries off very quickly. Due to very little traffic in 2020 there was some lichen on the slabby sections, when it was wet these became pretty slippery. Excellent exposure but always with protection. Did it in approach shoes and felt a bit stiff for S (only for a couple of moves). Scottish Rock does now grade it a HS.
arose 15 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very loose blocks on third pitch.
Show beta
βeta: Very loose blocks on third pitch.
lewis.m 26 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Flake on the tower pitch(pitch 3) is very loose now. Could become significantly more difficult when it breaks.
Show beta
βeta: Flake on the tower pitch(pitch 3) is very loose now. Could become significantly more difficult when it breaks.

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 150
Votes cast 149
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Phaff

Grade: S ***
(Red Wall)

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