Rockfax Description
A stunning route with many challenging pitches. Start below a steep groove, directly below the imposing 'Great Arete'.
1) 5b, 25m. Ascend the groove to a ledge, make committing moves to a hard section at 2/3 height over a bulge. Gain the grassy terrace and belay below the next groove.
2) 5b, 20m. Head up the groove, enter the slick chimney section and exit to a sloping ledge. At the bulge, move onto the bubbled wall on the right and belay on another ledge.
3) 5a, 18m. Move down and left to a spike-jug and traverse left to gain another groove on the left. Climb this for 10m to a semi-hanging belay on a good spike and wires.
4) 5a, 35m. Ascend the innocuous-looking groove to a grass ledge at its top.
5) 4c, 20m. Move up and right on the tremendously exposed wall and follow a flake up and right to a grass bay. Belay below a crevasse.
6) 4a, 40m. Walk left to the rib and climb it. Caution is needed with loose rock. Above the ground gets a bit more broken and you can carry on over several steps to belay in a broad grassy gully. Scramble out to a flattening and traverse off right. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock , Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock & Other Classics , N Wales 2021 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales Esoterica Which Might Actually Be Good Climbing , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
SimonWooden 5 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Great long day out on a fantastic crag. We considered the second pitch the crux with some wetness making life difficult for the leader (Mark) to place gear. But agree with the 'many challenging pitches' description!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great long day out on a fantastic crag. We considered the second pitch the crux with some wetness making life difficult for the leader (Mark) to place gear. But agree with the 'many challenging pitches' description!

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 46
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 40
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Barbarian

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Craig Pant Ifan (Tremadog))

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