Rockfax Description
A stunning route with many challenging pitches. Start below a steep groove, directly below the imposing 'Great Arete'.
1) 5b, 25m. Ascend the groove to a ledge, make committing moves up the main groove to a hard section at about 2/3 height over a bulge. Gain the grassy terrace and belay below the next groove.
2) 5b, 20m. Head up the groove, enter the slick chimney section and exit to a slopy ledge. At the bulge, move onto the bubbled wall on the right and belay on a slopy ledge. Wire up high and peg on the right.
3) 5a, 18m. Move down and left to a spike-jug and traverse left to gain another groove on the left. Climb this for 10m to a semi-hanging belay on a good spike and wires.
4) 5a, 35m. Ascend the innocuous-looking groove to a grass ledge at its top.
5) 4c, 20m. Move up and right on the tremendously exposed wall and follow a flake up and right to a grass bay and belay below a crevasse.
6) 4a, 40m. Walk left to the rib and climb it. Caution needed with loose rock. Above the ground gets a bit more broken and you can carry on over several steps to belay in a broad grassy gully. Scramble out to a flattening and traverse off right. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Hard Rock, Victim Of Mathematics' Ticklist of Extreme Justice, North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E1 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock 2020, Hard Rock & Other Classics, N Wales 2021

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