Rockfax Description
III, 600m, 4 - 5 hours. A good route and the easiest way to the summit of one of the Alps' less accessible 4000ers. Having said that, this is a long and remote-feeling route that commands respect.
Approach - From the Refuge du Couvercle, traverse northeast onto the Glacier de Talèfre and head towards the Aiguille Verte. Pass to the left of the Jardin de Talèfre and, once above this, turn right and make a rising traverse to the foot of the snow couloir at the start of the Normal Route.
1) Climb the 40 - 45 degree snow couloir for 200m to emerge onto the southeast face.
2) Follow a ramp, which leads up and gradually rightwards over moderate ground to a 100m high rock/mixed band.
3) 4b. Climb the rock/mixed band (sections of 4b) and then head leftwards to reach a snow slope.
4) Go left up the snow slope to hit a snow ridge and follow this to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, scramble left easily onto the east summit.
Descent - Reverse the route. It is threatened by rockfall in hot conditions so climb them on a cooler day, get up early and bail if you aren't making good time. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
From the Courvercle hut, ross the glacier above the "Jardin" to a steep approach couloir. Climb this or the rocks on the right. At the top it merges with a steep snow slope which is followed to a rock band. Climb the band (various possibilities, bottom right to top left probably easiest. Above a steep snow slope and arete leads the summit rocks.


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Route of Interest

Spencer Couloir

Grade: AD+ ***
(Aiguille de Blaitière)
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