Dates: 28 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2023 update: There are Kestrels nesting in Cascara Crack again this year. The restriction applies to Cascara Crack to SAE inclusive.
For Pulpit Groove and Suspense/etc please either top out or belay back in the trees away from the edge of the ledge to help avoid disturbing the birds.
Rockfax Description
A popular and pleasant line up the left arete of the quarry. A strenuous juggy start and awkward groove lead to a ledge. A grope around to the right should locate a good flake; a quick layback reaches a pine stump on a ledge (popular belay spot) then finish more easily out leftwards. © Rockfax
FA. Albert Shutt 1952.
Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Northern Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Chatsworth to Bamford , Peak district Road To Ruins Diff-VS , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Lawrencefield , The Gritlist , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , York University Students path to greatness , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit Wishlist , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HS , Innominata Mountain Club 30th Anniversary Peak District List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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FallingBrick | 30 May, 2020 |
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βeta: Can be climbed in one pitch (40m+ rope). The pine tree mentioned in some older guides is gone. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Can be climbed in one pitch (40m+ rope). The pine tree mentioned in some older guides is gone. |
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catt | 12 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: nice route, but i found it harder than the likes of pmc1 and manchester buttress. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: nice route, but i found it harder than the likes of pmc1 and manchester buttress. |
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Chris the Tall | 11 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: Very easy for the grade and much easier than I remember. Great fun and plenty of gear | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very easy for the grade and much easier than I remember. Great fun and plenty of gear |
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andyebbens | 26 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Agree,not quite 2 stars. Didn't layback the crack, instead traversed right using a good foothold on the arete onto the face, then straight up to the tree. Gives good exposed moves, and no harder. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Agree,not quite 2 stars. Didn't layback the crack, instead traversed right using a good foothold on the arete onto the face, then straight up to the tree. Gives good exposed moves, and no harder. |
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mat_galvin | 28 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Fantastic route. Great holds and moves. Big grins all the way up! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Fantastic route. Great holds and moves. Big grins all the way up! |
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Jonathan T | 19 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Very enjoyable, not quite three star stuff though. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Very enjoyable, not quite three star stuff though. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Stanage Plantation)