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700m. 6.30 start from Madame Carle (with sleepingbag and stove). 11.30 in Col. We traversed in the snow of the W face and up a couloir of sort (not recommended.) N of tour Pointue we scaled the arete. Follow arete,pass tour Pointue W to base of tour du Geant. Around 19.00 we found a very good bivac around 3500m.
Next day we found the rock quality poor. The last tower is the crux with an obvious corner (with a fixed sling) and a traverse to the left (10m). Then gully to the summit.
Down on the S side to the snow: 4 abseils direct from the summit. (last abseil 45m !)
greetz, Michaelja

Dibona-Mayer 1913.


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Route of Interest

Pilier Candau

Grade: D ***
(Le Rateau)