Start in the trench, directly between two war caves.
1) IV, 30m. Climb the wall direct, following a large flake on the left, then traverse left to reach a small ledge.
2) IV, 20m. Climb direct, then move left to enter a corner midway up, following this right around a patch of pale rock to the top of a small pillar.
3) IV, 25m. Follow a black crack directly above the belay, passing a small ledge on the right, then pull through an overhang to a stance below a yellow face.
4) IV, 30m. Keep left of the yellow face following a flake, then move left through a series of cracks before climbing a few metres direct to reach a good ledge below a corner.
5) IV, 30m. Climb the yellow corner above. Avoid the continuation crack and, instead, traverse easily right on a good ledge for 10m. Climb the slab above, first direct then left to a belay on top of a yellow spur.
6) IV, 35m. Traverse right along a ledge then climb the right side of a detached pillar. Reach a ledge and follow this left to a ring belay. A harder variant (V) takes the crack above the belay direct to reach the ledge.
7) IV+, 30m. Traverse a few metres further left then follow a ramp right on good holds. Continue moving right to a stance on a ledge below a black slab.
8) V-, 20m. Climb the black slab above on very compact rock then move left then back right to avoid a small roof.
9) III, 35m. Move a few metres left then follow an easy ramp right to a thread belay. © Rockfax
FA. (P6 - 9) Bernardi, Sia 2004 15/Jun/2004.
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