UKH

Rockfax Description
The super-steep line on the left side of the wall is one of the UK's great 7c pitches. A couple of pieces of gear are needed at the start. The pull leftwards into the steep crack above the first overhang is difficult but the final lurch over the roof to gain the lower-off is the crux. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Dominatrix is now fully bolted. No trad gear needed since an extra bolt has been added at the start.

FA. Martin Berzins, Chris Sowden 1985.

Ticklists

15 Climbs to do before you die, Extreme Rock, Classic UK F7s, Mike and Connors 2 year plan, Yorkshire Limestone Graded List, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, Northern Limestone for Catalans, 2019 Targets, Yorkshire Limestone top 50, James' Summer Ticklist, Chris Sowden U.K Sport Routes, Steep UK Sport Routes, Pyramid to 8a+

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User Date Notes
JosephWhitham 7 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Working moves , tricky gaining upper groove
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Working moves , tricky gaining upper groove
Daniel Grout 4 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: First session was hell, 4th day on and felt horrific, couldn't even make it to the top bucket. Good links second session. First rp third session, sent pretty comfortably bar the terrible cut loose and legs flailing around the bottom roof. Spectacular route, really is on you from that first roof, super goey. Needed a good bit of refining
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First session was hell, 4th day on and felt horrific, couldn't even make it to the top bucket. Good links second session. First rp third session, sent pretty comfortably bar the terrible cut loose and legs flailing around the bottom roof. Spectacular route, really is on you from that first roof, super goey. Needed a good bit of refining
Aaron.Clifford 27 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely a loose block between the first and second bolts, easily avoided but it's so chalked up it's very inviting. Worth someone going up with a crowbar and taking it off before someone gets it in the head.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely a loose block between the first and second bolts, easily avoided but it's so chalked up it's very inviting. Worth someone going up with a crowbar and taking it off before someone gets it in the head.
RD 5 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: A bolt at the bottom and one on the lip of the first roof. There's a few loose holds before you get to the first bolt. Maybe you also didn't notice the 'good' holds between first and second bolts are actualy made of wobbly blocks, all of which could fall out. Yes - it's mostly easy climbing but if the bolt above the first roof failed (and the rock where it's placed is cracked) then somebody would probably die. Do you need glasses?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A bolt at the bottom and one on the lip of the first roof. There's a few loose holds before you get to the first bolt. Maybe you also didn't notice the 'good' holds between first and second bolts are actualy made of wobbly blocks, all of which could fall out. Yes - it's mostly easy climbing but if the bolt above the first roof failed (and the rock where it's placed is cracked) then somebody would probably die. Do you need glasses?
Andy Farnell 29 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Where else would you suggest putting bolts in? I did this just after Easter 2007 and found no looseness at all. Diet time maybe ;)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where else would you suggest putting bolts in? I did this just after Easter 2007 and found no looseness at all. Diet time maybe ;)
RD 22 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It would be a better route if it was properely bolted as there is still many loose blocks that will fall off at some point near the start. Yesterday we pulled off enough rock to fill a bucket! Compared with all the other routes on North Buttress the run out between the bolts are excessive. It's another case of 'traditional Yorshire values' overriding common sence since if certain bolts did fail serious injury is guaranteed.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It would be a better route if it was properely bolted as there is still many loose blocks that will fall off at some point near the start. Yesterday we pulled off enough rock to fill a bucket! Compared with all the other routes on North Buttress the run out between the bolts are excessive. It's another case of 'traditional Yorshire values' overriding common sence since if certain bolts did fail serious injury is guaranteed.
GDes 30 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Dear Nic, you do know it doesnt count if you pull on the bolts?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dear Nic, you do know it doesnt count if you pull on the bolts?

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Voting
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
Votes cast 73
Votes cast 63
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Mobot and The Bolt

Grade: 7c ***
(Hull Pot)
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