Rockfax Description
The most 'classic' of the classics here. Of course 'classic' often also means polished and, in this case, the polish makes the route a good bit harder in the wet.
1) 45m. A quartzy slab leads to ledges and an A-shaped niche in the overlap. Pull through this. More slab work leads to a stance.
2) 25m. The glossy twin-cracks allow for skiddy progress to a flake. Step left onto the slab and climb featured rock to a corner.
3) 20m. Neat climbing on crinkly holds leads to a groove stance.
4) 28m. Climb the groove and sidestep the bulge leftwards, to reach ledgy ground and a shared stance with Faith.
5) 42m. Continue up the groove until things rear up and climb the polished step to ledges and escape left to a belay ledge. © Rockfax
Emily Daniel (n?e Young) 1915.
Classic Rock , A grand easy welsh day out , Top 23 UKC Climbed Climbs , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Heather's Multipitch Climbs , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Snowdonia - long routes and classic climbs , AMC Uni Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , North wales road to ruins HVS , Snowdonia in Chains , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Big Ogwen Day Out , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Definitive *** Ogwen , Mountain Rock , Easy peasy Northy Weesy , The (easy) Welsh Top50 Round , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , LSMC to do , Dream Challenge (The BIG ONE) , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge , Summertime Travels 2022 , Slab Dreams , Dan’s Delights , No you're a punter , UKC Top 20 Climbs (Not Grit) , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Llidberis , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , Ben's Trad Ticklist , North Wales , Martin’s 1980’s Ticklist , 2024 , UKC Other Rock Types Top 20 Wishlist Climbs
User | Date | Notes | ||
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chrisevans | 15 Oct |
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βeta: Medium polish. Still good. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Medium polish. Still good. |
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Deano.Nev | 7 Jun |
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βeta: Rather polished in the cracks, loads for gear placement, lovely easy going slab climb. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Rather polished in the cracks, loads for gear placement, lovely easy going slab climb. |
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Blake | 20 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Not a great solo. Polished and insecure with slimy streaks. A victim of it's popularity. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not a great solo. Polished and insecure with slimy streaks. A victim of it's popularity. |
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Moi_taiga | 29 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: The abseil block is becoming less and less stable, don't understand why someone keeps removing the tat from the perfectly good rockspike below. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The abseil block is becoming less and less stable, don't understand why someone keeps removing the tat from the perfectly good rockspike below. |
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PappaDaq | 20 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: Great wee route, did it as a group of 4! If going in the morning, would recommend taking some gloves as the slabs are in the shade all, if not, most of the morning :) Will be coming back for the multi-pitch swinging leads! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great wee route, did it as a group of 4! If going in the morning, would recommend taking some gloves as the slabs are in the shade all, if not, most of the morning :) Will be coming back for the multi-pitch swinging leads! |
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G-walker89 | 21 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Definitely a classic, thoroughly enjoyed this clim. beware of the loose holds marked with an “X”. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Definitely a classic, thoroughly enjoyed this clim. beware of the loose holds marked with an “X”. |
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Trev199 | 28 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: A brilliant route, my first trad multi-pitch | βeta? | |
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βeta: A brilliant route, my first trad multi-pitch |
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Felix Ottey | 12 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Just as good as expected. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Just as good as expected. |
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Voiteck | 14 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: a bit polished in places and awkward descent, but definitely worth to do :) | βeta? | |
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βeta: a bit polished in places and awkward descent, but definitely worth to do :) |
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gosset | 27 Jun, 2019 |
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βeta: Quite polished in some places. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Quite polished in some places. |
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Madajo | 26 May, 2019 |
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βeta: Seems like every piece of rock is horribly polished. Also the abseil block isn\'t particularly obvious and doesn\'t seem to be connected to the main face. If this is such a common descent would it be so bad to add bolts? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Seems like every piece of rock is horribly polished. Also the abseil block isn't particularly obvious and doesn't seem to be connected to the main face. If this is such a common descent would it be so bad to add bolts? |
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Grade: VD ***
(Y Lliwedd)