The most 'classic' of the classics here and the second most popular route in Wales according to UKC Logbooks. Of course 'classic' often also means polished and, in this case, the polish makes the route a good bit harder in the wet.
1) 45m. A quartzy slab leads to ledges and an A-shaped niche in the overlap. Pull through this. More slab work then leads to a stance.
2) 25m. The glossy twin-cracks allow for skiddy progress (good runners) to a flake. Step left onto the slab and climb the featured rock to belay in the corner.
3) 20m. More neat climbing on nice crinkly holds leads to a stance in the groove.
4) 28m. Climb the groove and sidestep the bulge leftwards, to reach ledgy ground.
5) 42m. Continue up the groove until things rear up and climb the polished step to ledges and escape left to a belay ledge. © Rockfax
Emily Daniel (née Young) 1915.
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