The right-hand of the trio of virtuous routes is often damp, though it is worthwhile even in these conditions. Start under the right-hand sheet of slab where its undercut base ends.1) 35m. Step up then trend left up the edge of the slab before heading direct to a big stance. Hard-won gear.2) 30m. Follow quartz rails left to a crack. Go up the slab to its left to a belay. 3) 12m. An easy groove above leads to a stance on the right under the steep west wall.4) 28m. Climb leftwards onto the next sheet of slab. Climb this anywhere (best on its left edge) to a stance shared with Hope, and hence often busy. A neat pitch.5) 42m. As for Hope. More broken ground leads up then left to reach a polished step. Move up this and step left onto the large terrace below the upper walls.Escape left to the main descent or continue on upwards via a route on the Holly Tree Wall. © Rockfax
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Grade: VD ***
(Craig Braich Ty Du (Pen yr Ole Wen))
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