UKH

35m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.
2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 15/Apr/1984.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, 101Pembroke Extremes, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Theo's Pembroke ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces

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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Wicked Gravity

Grade: E5 6b ***
(St. Govan's Head)
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