An amazing climb which takes a wild line up the seaward end of the wall. The conditions of this route seem to vary from slippery and unclimbable to surprisingly dry. Take a lot of small wires.
1) 6a, 25m. Climb the ramp then step down and traverse left with difficulty. Move up the ramp above into a runnel and squirm up this to a tricky exit. Belay on a big thread in the groove above.
2) 5c, 10m. Undercut wildly rightwards around the roof, then step back left and look down at your second. Finish straight up to a big natural thread on the right. © Rockfax
FA. P.Littlejohn, T.Penning 15/Apr/1984.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, 101Pembroke Extremes, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Theo's Pembroke ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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