The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Rockfax Description
A steady start leads to the ledge. Then a tricky move is needed to gain the upper open scoop which gives good climbing. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The rebolting process in 2017 has cleaned the area just left and moved the first couple of bolts. This means that the hard move at the start is now avoided giving a better more consistent route (making the RR combo unnecessary). Possibly just 6a now - and probably the best route at that grade in the quarry.
FA. Ian Riddington, Geoff Radcliffe 1985.
Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Peak sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality , Peak sport for mortals
User | Date | Notes | ||
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erinjukes | 28 Oct, 2021 |
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βeta: First section is mega chossy so tap holds before pulling on them. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First section is mega chossy so tap holds before pulling on them. |
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Christheclimber | 5 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Graded 6b in the definitive BMC guidebook. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Graded 6b in the definitive BMC guidebook. |
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Tris | 31 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: Really enjoyed this one - really nice moves above and a delicate finish | βeta? | |
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βeta: Really enjoyed this one - really nice moves above and a delicate finish |
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ksjs | 8 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: worth at least 1 star: very enjoyable climbing with a delicate move to make the belay. | βeta? | |
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βeta: worth at least 1 star: very enjoyable climbing with a delicate move to make the belay. |
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derekm | 16 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Sorry Sorry: just pulled a hold off the hard move by the first bolt - and sprained my ankle on the way down so unable to say if the move is now harder: spoiled a good day's climbing too! What was odd was this was the third time I've climbed Schools Out and I thought I had it wired. You can never quite trust quarried limestone.... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry Sorry: just pulled a hold off the hard move by the first bolt - and sprained my ankle on the way down so unable to say if the move is now harder: spoiled a good day's climbing too! What was odd was this was the third time I've climbed Schools Out and I thought I had it wired. You can never quite trust quarried limestone.... |
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Joe Costello | 17 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Found "the hard move" quite hard for a 6b. Probably a British tech 6a move I'd say. The Rest was nice and easy though. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found "the hard move" quite hard for a 6b. Probably a British tech 6a move I'd say. The Rest was nice and easy though. |
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gildor | 16 May, 2005 |
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βeta: Climbed this again recently and there is an awkward section at half height that I don't remember from the first time and two lighter areas on the rock that look as if holds have pulled off. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Climbed this again recently and there is an awkward section at half height that I don't remember from the first time and two lighter areas on the rock that look as if holds have pulled off. |
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MNA123 | 18 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: Halfway up when it started raining, carried on tough cause im hard! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Halfway up when it started raining, carried on tough cause im hard! |
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Chris the Tall | 8 Aug, 2003 |
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βeta: Didn't find the start much harder or much more unpleasant than the start to RR and certainly doesn't merit 6b. The upper section is pleasant, particulary as you know you've already done the crux. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Didn't find the start much harder or much more unpleasant than the start to RR and certainly doesn't merit 6b. The upper section is pleasant, particulary as you know you've already done the crux. |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 21 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: The lower move is much harder than anything else on the route and not brilliant climbing. The combination I mention above is well-worth doing and probably gives the best 6a at Horseshoe. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The lower move is much harder than anything else on the route and not brilliant climbing. The combination I mention above is well-worth doing and probably gives the best 6a at Horseshoe. |
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Grade: 6a+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)