Restricted Access

The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.

In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end

19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.

Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag saferit has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.

Seasonal Restrictions

Reason: Nesting Birds

House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A steady start leads to the ledge. Then a tricky move is needed to gain the upper open scoop which gives good climbing. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The rebolting process in 2017 has cleaned the area just left and moved the first couple of bolts. This means that the hard move at the start is now avoided giving a better more consistent route (making the RR combo unnecessary). Possibly just 6a now - and probably the best route at that grade in the quarry.

FA. Ian Riddington, Geoff Radcliffe 1985.

Ticklists

Peak limestone north graded list - sport , The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes? , Peak sport , The Horseshoe Top 15 Challenge , Horseshoe Star Quality , Peak sport for mortals

Feedback

User Date Notes
erinjukes 28 Oct, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First section is mega chossy so tap holds before pulling on them.
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βeta: First section is mega chossy so tap holds before pulling on them.
Christheclimber 5 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Graded 6b in the definitive BMC guidebook.
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βeta: Graded 6b in the definitive BMC guidebook.
Tris 31 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Really enjoyed this one - really nice moves above and a delicate finish
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βeta: Really enjoyed this one - really nice moves above and a delicate finish
ksjs 8 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: worth at least 1 star: very enjoyable climbing with a delicate move to make the belay.
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βeta: worth at least 1 star: very enjoyable climbing with a delicate move to make the belay.
derekm 16 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry Sorry: just pulled a hold off the hard move by the first bolt - and sprained my ankle on the way down so unable to say if the move is now harder: spoiled a good day's climbing too! What was odd was this was the third time I've climbed Schools Out and I thought I had it wired. You can never quite trust quarried limestone....
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βeta: Sorry Sorry: just pulled a hold off the hard move by the first bolt - and sprained my ankle on the way down so unable to say if the move is now harder: spoiled a good day's climbing too! What was odd was this was the third time I've climbed Schools Out and I thought I had it wired. You can never quite trust quarried limestone....
Joe Costello 17 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Found "the hard move" quite hard for a 6b. Probably a British tech 6a move I'd say. The Rest was nice and easy though.
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βeta: Found "the hard move" quite hard for a 6b. Probably a British tech 6a move I'd say. The Rest was nice and easy though.
gildor 16 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this again recently and there is an awkward section at half height that I don't remember from the first time and two lighter areas on the rock that look as if holds have pulled off.
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βeta: Climbed this again recently and there is an awkward section at half height that I don't remember from the first time and two lighter areas on the rock that look as if holds have pulled off.
MNA123 18 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Halfway up when it started raining, carried on tough cause im hard!
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βeta: Halfway up when it started raining, carried on tough cause im hard!
Chris the Tall 8 Aug, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Didn't find the start much harder or much more unpleasant than the start to RR and certainly doesn't merit 6b. The upper section is pleasant, particulary as you know you've already done the crux.
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βeta: Didn't find the start much harder or much more unpleasant than the start to RR and certainly doesn't merit 6b. The upper section is pleasant, particulary as you know you've already done the crux.
Alan James - Rockfax 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The lower move is much harder than anything else on the route and not brilliant climbing. The combination I mention above is well-worth doing and probably gives the best 6a at Horseshoe.
βeta?
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βeta: The lower move is much harder than anything else on the route and not brilliant climbing. The combination I mention above is well-worth doing and probably gives the best 6a at Horseshoe.

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Guidebooks for Horseshoe Quarry

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 190
Votes cast 189
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Carls Walk Pool

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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