Rockfax Description
A great route up an impeccable slab, and one that is recommended for,.... breaking the E1 barrier! Start a few metres right of Tension, and climb up and slightly right to gain the triangular foothold. Climb the thin crack above, until you can step right into a broken crack on the right. Climb this to a jug before finishing up the steeper corner/groove above. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An enjoyable & varied route which would make a good first extreme. From a low triangular foothold, ascend the vertical cracklines in the centre of the slab, making a tricky step rightwards just above half height. Finish on good holds up the steep corner above.
J Donelly 1980.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Get out on Rock , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , Wales Trip - 2022
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 8 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Fair at the grade, but not soft. There are definitely easier E1s - even if there are also harder routes at the grade. The gear is fiddly and it's good to have a decent rack to hand. Micro wires are not crucial but definitely allow more options and pieces between you and the ground. Otherwise there are two places where you'd only have one slightly dodgy nut between you a ground sweeper. You also really have to work on the micro-navigation, as there are easier and harder options in a number of places and the best line is not always completely obvious. Very good and worth doing, though. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Fair at the grade, but not soft. There are definitely easier E1s - even if there are also harder routes at the grade. The gear is fiddly and it's good to have a decent rack to hand. Micro wires are not crucial but definitely allow more options and pieces between you and the ground. Otherwise there are two places where you'd only have one slightly dodgy nut between you a ground sweeper. You also really have to work on the micro-navigation, as there are easier and harder options in a number of places and the best line is not always completely obvious. Very good and worth doing, though. |
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| annasoli | 8 Dec, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Started the day yesterday by backing of Dream of White Horses because of shit weather - I guess December isn't really the season. Thanks to Jake for catching my jacket by the tips of his fingers before it blew into the sea. Then bailed off this at the first (quite high) nuts after deciding that run out slabs in the rain are a bit shit. Thankfully my placements were terrible, so we managed to whip the gear out from the ground without walking round and rapping the route. Got back to the rest of the group just in time to help our mate to A&E (run out slabs in the rain really are a bit shit). The weekend continued today with a team ascent of Lockwood's chimney (without Ollie, who was a bit too wet), over the course of which we lost - in reverse order of importance: one of Ollie's cams, a hex, a sling, a nut and a set of half ropes. (Please get in contact if found!!!) Classic uni weekend, well worth the 6 hour drive from London. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Started the day yesterday by backing of Dream of White Horses because of shit weather - I guess December isn't really the season. Thanks to Jake for catching my jacket by the tips of his fingers before it blew into the sea. Then bailed off this at the first (quite high) nuts after deciding that run out slabs in the rain are a bit shit. Thankfully my placements were terrible, so we managed to whip the gear out from the ground without walking round and rapping the route. Got back to the rest of the group just in time to help our mate to A&E (run out slabs in the rain really are a bit shit). The weekend continued today with a team ascent of Lockwood's chimney (without Ollie, who was a bit too wet), over the course of which we lost - in reverse order of importance: one of Ollie's cams, a hex, a sling, a nut and a set of half ropes. (Please get in contact if found!!!) Classic uni weekend, well worth the 6 hour drive from London. |
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| Wilberforce | 28 Jun, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not convinced this would be a good intro to E1: the start is quite bold and the landing isn\'t great. The gear does improve with height though. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not convinced this would be a good intro to E1: the start is quite bold and the landing isn't great. The gear does improve with height though. |
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| Alimitch | 11 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Small wires and cams handy | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Small wires and cams handy |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Holyhead Mountain
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Hombre
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)