A true classic of the grade, which follows an almost unbelievable path into, and out of territory that looks as though it should be reserved for far more extreme climbs. Start on ledges level with an orange, lichen-covered ledge (this is the belay ledge at the end of the first pitch) as viewed from the easy, rocky-ground that runs down the right side of the zawn.
1) 13m. Traverse horizontally rightwards past a bay to a good stance on the orange ledge.
2) 4b, 22m. Continue the traverse rightwards for a further 12m, then descend the steep wall and corner to a point just above the high-water mark. Move right to a stance and belay. This pitch requires careful route-finding, and is much trickier if damp.
3) 4a, 38m. Take the wall above the stance to meet the corner at the overhang. Follow the corner in a breathtaking position, all the way to the top. © Rockfax
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