Alan Hill & Brian Aplin 24/Feb/1985.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
David Staples | 28 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Easy 4b (ish) start but not much gear - there is a good size 3 gold DMM torque nut after you latch the jug half way up the overhanging start . The crux is protected by a rusty peg which seems ok however there is a bomber micro wire placement about 3 foot above the peg. You can move out right slightly at the peg to get a no hands rest. Above the bomber micro placement there is another bomber wire slot before committing to the crux overlap. From above the overlap the protection is really good and not super pumpy to place if you climb through the hard moves to good holds and place gear from these. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Easy 4b (ish) start but not much gear - there is a good size 3 gold DMM torque nut after you latch the jug half way up the overhanging start . The crux is protected by a rusty peg which seems ok however there is a bomber micro wire placement about 3 foot above the peg. You can move out right slightly at the peg to get a no hands rest. Above the bomber micro placement there is another bomber wire slot before committing to the crux overlap. From above the overlap the protection is really good and not super pumpy to place if you climb through the hard moves to good holds and place gear from these. |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Les Ecrilleurs)