UKH

22m. The best pitch on the island apparently.
Follow the RW-trending start of Styx Trip to the PR, then climb the wall above via letterboxes to finish up a thin crack. Adequately protected on small wires and a friend 1.5. This is the route on the back cover of the Guidebook.
The peg has been there since before 1996 and is not really trustworthy, however it can be backed up by a small wire underneath and micros left and above.

Alan Hill & Brian Aplin 24/Feb/1985.

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User Date Notes
David Staples 28 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Easy 4b (ish) start but not much gear - there is a good size 3 gold DMM torque nut after you latch the jug half way up the overhanging start . The crux is protected by a rusty peg which seems ok however there is a bomber micro wire placement about 3 foot above the peg. You can move out right slightly at the peg to get a no hands rest. Above the bomber micro placement there is another bomber wire slot before committing to the crux overlap. From above the overlap the protection is really good and not super pumpy to place if you climb through the hard moves to good holds and place gear from these.
Show beta
βeta: Easy 4b (ish) start but not much gear - there is a good size 3 gold DMM torque nut after you latch the jug half way up the overhanging start . The crux is protected by a rusty peg which seems ok however there is a bomber micro wire placement about 3 foot above the peg. You can move out right slightly at the peg to get a no hands rest. Above the bomber micro placement there is another bomber wire slot before committing to the crux overlap. From above the overlap the protection is really good and not super pumpy to place if you climb through the hard moves to good holds and place gear from these.

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Stratasfear

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Les Ecrilleurs)
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