Loading Notifications...
45m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great top pitch that heads up the leaning white headwall at its highest point. Start on the huge boulders right of the sea cave.
1) 5a, 20m. As for Oceanid.
2) 6a, 24m. Move diagonally left, then back rightwards above an overhang to a small ledge and a peg. Follow the tapering crack above, past a large, wedged cornflake, to fingery moves that gain the final, slightly broken wall. Belay on fence posts. The crack has lots of pegs insitu, however some of them have very narrow eyes, so some narrow-nosed karabiners will be found useful to clip them. © Rockfax

FA. Brian Snell, Keith Knight (aided) 21.2.1976. FFA. Steve Monks, Steve Findlay 28.11.1981.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, West Country Climbs, Extreme Rock "Wall" Routes, Swanage wild pumpfests, UK Lonely Leads, Ultimate E4 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), South West Climbs - Pat Littlejohn (1st Ed.), SWADDAGE

Feedback

User Date Notes
TonyM 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Had a similar experience to Matt yesterday. Never 6a, just very sustained at 5c. Wish I'd known about the peg eyes - they didn't like my modern lightwt hot forged krabs much! Top out is absolutely fine.
matt perks 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I think the hard bit on the second pitch is only 5c but had to rest anyway because by the time I got there I was pumped stupid. Comment about small peg eyes is accurate, though they're not ridiculously small. There are a couple of loose flakes on this pitch but nothing to worry about. The top-out is not bad for Swanage - requires care but it's not bad. First pitch is a bit friable but there is gear and it's not hard. Very good overall.
doylo 29 Aug, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sandbag for 5c! Otherwise ok. Ace top pitch!

Logged Ascents

63 users have logged this
14 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 19
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 19
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Redpoint
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Bare Reputation

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Cave Hole)