UKH

50m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Technical and sustained with small wires essential. Start 20m right of Oceanid at two converging cracks.
1) 5a, 22m. Climb halfway up the right-hand crack, then step left into a scoop. Ascend a short corner to a slab, then traverse along until is possible to reach the higher slab (peg). Continue left to the belay on Oceanid. Friable rock.
2) 5c, 10m. Trend right to the roof (large cam). Move over and undercut right along the lip then move up to belay (peg) below a short corner in the next roof.
3) 6a, 20m. Gain a corner and pull over the roof onto a narrow ledge (peg). Climb the wall just right (bold) to a rest in a flake-crack, then tackle the steep white wall on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Crocker, Jim Robertson 21/Aug/1983.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, Littlejohn South West Climbs, Ultimate E4 ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
matt perks 22 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This description is not accurate. On the first pitch it's not clear what is meant by the converging cracks, though the scoop, and moves left onto the slab, are clear enough. This is all on very friable rock. On reaching the slab just traverse horizontally left to reach the thread belay on Oceanid. The next pitch moves up to the roof and crosses it directly above the belay (no sloping ledge) before undercutting right as described. The third pitch pulls over the roof (totally wild) onto the narrow ledge and then climbs the wall more or less as described, however, the moves to leave the narrow ledge are hard and there is no decent gear (there are wires in a flake on the left but this is detached) though there is good gear again higher up. I'm glad I was seconding this one.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This description is not accurate. On the first pitch it's not clear what is meant by the converging cracks, though the scoop, and moves left onto the slab, are clear enough. This is all on very friable rock. On reaching the slab just traverse horizontally left to reach the thread belay on Oceanid. The next pitch moves up to the roof and crosses it directly above the belay (no sloping ledge) before undercutting right as described. The third pitch pulls over the roof (totally wild) onto the narrow ledge and then climbs the wall more or less as described, however, the moves to leave the narrow ledge are hard and there is no decent gear (there are wires in a flake on the left but this is detached) though there is good gear again higher up. I'm glad I was seconding this one.

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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 9
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Barracuda

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Boulder Ruckle)
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