Loading Notifications...
33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.

1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath the smooth-sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right.
2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear, then step left and climb the overhang to finish up the bold wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31/Mar/1974.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs, Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012, Ultimate E1 ticklist, SW Climbs - Swanage, 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes, The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Memorable Climbs, Cool Names, Dorset, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

Feedback

User Date Notes
GrahamD 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem.
Owen W-G 3 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish
ian bryant 13 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel!
Different Steve 13 Nov, 2001 Show βeta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go.

Logged Ascents

399 users have logged this
66 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 75
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 69
Votes cast 93
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Thunderball

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)