UKH Hills - 'The Spook'

33m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A sustained, varied climb and one of the best E1s at Swanage. Start under a prominent, smooth-sided corner.
1) 5a, 18m. Climb a corner to the roof, and swing right to beneath a smooth sided corner. Climb the fine corner to the mid-height break and belay on a ledge to the right.
2) 5b, 15m. Step right onto the wall and climb easily, but boldly up to the chert band and roof - old hidden peg. Arrange good gear and step left. Pull over the overhang and finish up the bold wall. © Rockfax

FA. Richard Crewe, P.Sharman 31/Mar/1974.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , Feature Photo Routes from Dorset Rockfax 2012 , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist , Memorable Climbs , Cool Names , Dorset , Dorset Routes that are worth doing , Dorset Good Trad D-E2 , Devon and surrounding counties, 51 E1, some E2, 1 E3 and an E9 , Red Spot Swanage & Lulworth , Dorset Trad Top 50 (Rockfax 2012)

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User	Date		Notes
Kiddie68	8 Feb	Show βeta βeta: Great route. Good jams and rests with perfect gear, on first pitch. Second pitch a bit bolder due hard to find/trust gear. Planned to do as single pitch but took belay as top pitch quite a long way right of first. I actually top-roped the direct finish line; probably hard E1, poss E2 as a single pitch, but gear slightly better than original.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Great route. Good jams and rests with perfect gear, on first pitch. Second pitch a bit bolder due hard to find/trust gear. Planned to do as single pitch but took belay as top pitch quite a long way right of first. I actually top-roped the direct finish line; probably hard E1, poss E2 as a single pitch, but gear slightly better than original.
ben_st	20 Nov, 2022	Show βeta βeta: Not sure about the 'swing right' in the description, it's a full on traverse on undercuts, any swing would likely see you pendulum off the cliff.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Not sure about the 'swing right' in the description, it's a full on traverse on undercuts, any swing would likely see you pendulum off the cliff.
Iain Weymouth	3 Apr, 2021	Show βeta βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall.
Show beta βeta: Wonderful contrasting pitches. There's a wedged cam (not mine!) next to the decrepit peg at the P2 overlap. These two together plus the infamous high big nut should be plenty for the pull onto the wall.
GrahamD	12 Dec, 2005	Show βeta βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: My favourite Swanage HVS. Pitch 1 in particular is a real gem.
Owen W-G	3 Aug, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Nice one Tim - your comments made it into the new guide! An excellent route btw. Head right asap from the belay for a great finish
ian bryant	13 Jul, 2004	Show βeta βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel!
Show beta βeta: agreed, i went left and was totally gripped on a footless mantel!
Different Steve	13 Nov, 2001	Show βeta βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Top pitch is fairly serious if you go left - Moves after the initial section are tricky and protected by poorish small wire(s). Not at all obvious which way to go.