Rockfax Description
A much-attempted route that features a spectacular and powerful top pitch. Upgraded from E1 as one of the pegs is now gone. Start beneath a huge rectangular depression that meets the overhangs at the faultline.
1) 4b, 18m. From right of the low overhangs, move leftwards above them and climb the steady wall, with little in the way of gear, to a thread and nut belay in the rectangular depression.
2) 5b, 16m. Gain the faultline beneath the overhang and move left to an arete (large cam useful). Pull over the roof (peg) to reach the next roofs. Traverse rightwards underneath these and finish up a crack, past a bulge to the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Smith, K.Winkworth 03/Apr/1972.
West Country Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , SW Climbs - Swanage , Dorset Routes that are worth doing
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Tall Oak | 29 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: The peg in the overlap is pretty good. Certainly gave it a tug and looked ok. Oh, and BRING A BRUSH! | ||
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βeta: The peg in the overlap is pretty good. Certainly gave it a tug and looked ok. Oh, and BRING A BRUSH! |
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mutt | 30 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: First pitch is easy but has almost no gear, 4b at most, The second pitch has had its teeth removed by the installation of a 'peg'-bolt. Definitely no more than an E1 now, but might even be old school HVS. | ||
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is easy but has almost no gear, 4b at most, The second pitch has had its teeth removed by the installation of a 'peg'-bolt. Definitely no more than an E1 now, but might even be old school HVS. |
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SiobhanStraver | 25 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Don\'t belay your second too tight or the pre-roof sections will be torture for them. Pulled out a broken bit of sling at the belay, which had a small bit of rock attached to it- I think this may have been the \'thread\' part of the thread and nut belay, which is now a flake. Plenty of places for gear (nuts, cam) at the belay still. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Don't belay your second too tight or the pre-roof sections will be torture for them. Pulled out a broken bit of sling at the belay, which had a small bit of rock attached to it- I think this may have been the 'thread' part of the thread and nut belay, which is now a flake. Plenty of places for gear (nuts, cam) at the belay still. |
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Iain Weymouth | 11 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: P2 Take a brush! Lower peg after the lip is shiny and looks recent... thank you to the Pixies! Deployed a heel hook... at my age! Super route, well chuffed! | ||
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βeta: P2 Take a brush! Lower peg after the lip is shiny and looks recent... thank you to the Pixies! Deployed a heel hook... at my age! Super route, well chuffed! |
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Ramon Marin | 18 Oct, 2006 |
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βeta: I found quite hard to get positioned below the first roof. I went from sentry box following the roof, and it was hard to get the jug above it. My partner went on the arete from the very beginning and found it much easier. oh well. | ||
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βeta: I found quite hard to get positioned below the first roof. I went from sentry box following the roof, and it was hard to get the jug above it. My partner went on the arete from the very beginning and found it much easier. oh well. |
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GrahamD | 12 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: The hard part is commiting to get into position to pull through the roof rather than the move itself. The peg over the roof looks pretty much brand new and safe as houses. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: The hard part is commiting to get into position to pull through the roof rather than the move itself. The peg over the roof looks pretty much brand new and safe as houses. |
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ian bryant | 13 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: make sure to keep something in reserve for after the roof 'cos it's certainly not all over once you clip the peg. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: make sure to keep something in reserve for after the roof 'cos it's certainly not all over once you clip the peg. |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Boulder Ruckle)