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Rockfax Description
A nice little route on good rock and with a relatively solid finish. Climb up the left side of the black overhang and continue up the vertical, cracked wall with interest to finish on a good ledge on the right. © Rockfax

FA. Pete Finklaire, B.Etheridge 1976.

Ticklists

Swanage A-Z, Orange Spot Swanage, SW Climbs - Swanage, SPA Training Minimum Requirement, Dorset Routes that are worth doing

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User Date Notes
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 18 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Keep your eyes out for the jutting block at around a third height. It’s extremely loose and moves a lot, but not quite enough to prize it out. Only a matter of time, so any future seconds may wish to give it another wobble, as it’s probably best out.
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βeta: Keep your eyes out for the jutting block at around a third height. It’s extremely loose and moves a lot, but not quite enough to prize it out. Only a matter of time, so any future seconds may wish to give it another wobble, as it’s probably best out.
Go_Climb_A_Rock 30 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Loose obvious hold. I tried to free it but no luck.
βeta?
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βeta: Loose obvious hold. I tried to free it but no luck.
Katsmiff 12 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Yeah nice route. Tricky bouldery start. Lots of sound gear to be had. Went straight up the crack at the end instead of to the right, which after reading everyone’s description sounds like a better idea as I belayed from a rock and ledge instead of a chossy ending and belaying from a fence post.
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βeta: Yeah nice route. Tricky bouldery start. Lots of sound gear to be had. Went straight up the crack at the end instead of to the right, which after reading everyone’s description sounds like a better idea as I belayed from a rock and ledge instead of a chossy ending and belaying from a fence post.
ian bryant 2 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: the description in the CC guide is very different to this. i thought i'd done this route at the weekend but it was nothing like this description and was way too far away from the abseil pipe anchor to use as a belay at the top. the route we did was about 10m west of the abseil line and followed a broken crack/groove (as per the CC guide) - it was good all the same!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: the description in the CC guide is very different to this. i thought i'd done this route at the weekend but it was nothing like this description and was way too far away from the abseil pipe anchor to use as a belay at the top. the route we did was about 10m west of the abseil line and followed a broken crack/groove (as per the CC guide) - it was good all the same!
GrahamD 12 Dec, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A real gem - sort of Quality Street's baby brother.
βeta?
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βeta: A real gem - sort of Quality Street's baby brother.

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Votes cast 50
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Route of Interest

Tatra (pre 2014 rockfall)

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Boulder Ruckle)