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Rockfax Description
IV, 750m, 6 - 8 hours. The Shroud tackles a stunning feature but is not climbed as much as it used to be since climbers have begun to seek out more technical routes. Modern ice climbing equipment has tamed the route slightly but the exposure and unrelenting nature of the terrain still makes this a line to be respected. The upper section has been skied on several occasions, a feat even beyond the comprehension of most extreme skiers.
1) The technical crux of the route is right at the start - the wide, icy runnel which breaks through the lower rock band. Climb the runnel in four pitches, the steepest of which kicks up to 80 degrees to reach the even wider icy ramp above.
2) Drift up and left across this (65 degrees) for 2 pitches to reach the main icefield.
3) Climb this (sustained at 50 - 55 degrees, with minimal protection in anything other than icy conditions) and, either follow an icy ramp out leftwards at the top, or (if conditions allow), go straight up through a mixed gully. Either option brings you onto the Hirondelles Ridge.
Descent - Either follow the Hirondelles ridge to the summit of Pointe Walker via some loose and unpleasant scrambling, or abseil down the ridge to reach the top of the Petit MacIntyre and then abseil down this. © Rockfax

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Route of Interest

South Face Direct

Grade: TD- 5c ***
(Aiguille d'Argentiere)