20m. On Binatoke NW wall. At the left end of the mother of all roofs is a crack, which runs from the roof to the top. The route follows this crack. Abseil to a small stance just above the roof. (Alternatively, if you want to wet your panties and create a new high grade super line, abseil below the roof to ledges which are visible at low tide). Climb the crack for a few metres until the holds become less positive. A technical move (crux) leads to easier going until just below the top where another more difficult move is encountered. Make this and exit. Not strenuous and low in the grade. Good protection.

P.Harrington, P.Breen.


Ireland 3 Star E1-E2


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Route of Interest

The Gift

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Gola Island)
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