A great route with a fantastic final pitch. Start from a small niche directly below the left end of the half-height ledge. 1) 5b, 28m. Climb up the crack and gain the first break-line. Follow the vague groove up to the next break, before continuing on to the left-hand end of the half-height ledge.2) 5b, 44m. From the right-hand end of the half-height ledge, climb up to another large break. Traverse this rightwards until you can reach up for another break. Follow this until you can step up and left across the slight overlap into a slim groove on the right. Head up and right, following the groove, until level with a final break. Traverse left across a groove onto the headwall where cracks lead past a series of ledges to the top. © Rockfax
Al Evan, J Moran (pitch 1) G Milburn, N Siddiqui 01/May/1978.
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)
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