A great route which takes an intricate line up the cliff by combining the best bits of three other routes. Start below the corner that runs down from the right-hand end of the half-height ledge.
1) 5a, 28m. Ascend the corner to the half-height ledge.
2) 5b, 28m. Descend the corner to a break then hand-traverse this, with much interest, for just over 10m until you are forced to head upwards. The wall above is thin and technical at first, but soon eases; good holds lead up and right to a belay.
3) 5b, 30m. Move up to the break-line, shuffle left to where the overlap is narrowest, and move over onto the wall above. Dance rightwards along the lip for a few moves, before heading up and right, aiming for a finishing groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 5a 28m To reach the start, either abseil directly down the corner, or traverse round the ledge at the base of Rap. The corner provides a superb, sustained pitch leading to the right hand side of the platform.
Pitch 2 5b 30m Drop back down the corner for 3m, then foot-shuffle rightwards along the break for a few meters, before dropping down and hand-traversing out right to the rest at 12m. The wall above is difficult at first, but it gradually eases as a leftward trending line of better holds takes you across to a belay beneath the overhang.
Pitch 3 5b 34m Break through the overhang where it narrows on the left, to gain a small groove. Traverse right on the lip of the overhang for a few meters, then head up and diagonally rightwards, eventually finishing up an easy groove.
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