Rockfax Description
The striking cracks in the towering wall. Sadly the approach pitch is poor but the final crack is worth the effort. Scramble up to a good ledge below a short wall.
1) 5b, 30m. Go up a short easy groove then move left around the arete. Move down slightly to gain the corner on the left. Climb this to a stance and block belay (slings) on the left.
2) 5c, 36m. Move to the left and climb the crack in the corner. Where the crack divides, follow the left branch. At a small overhang, move left then step back right following cracks to the final off-width. Layback or thrutch, it's your choice! © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Awesome route with a big man eating offwidth at the top. First pitch is worth E2 5b with tough moves and average gear. Second is also worth E2 5b up until the off width. There is a rest before the top, and you'll probably want to spend as long as possible on it.
Joe Brown.
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales E3's , Wide Cracks , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , The Road to Shibboleth , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Thrutch and Clutch , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , UK road to wide crack mastery , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Martin Cooper | 5 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Slight drizzle at the top didn't help. It certainly didn't for Stan as it was increasingly moist. Top crack took Dragon 8 and would have taken Dragon 7 if I'd brought it with me! | ||
Show beta
βeta: Slight drizzle at the top didn't help. It certainly didn't for Stan as it was increasingly moist. Top crack took Dragon 8 and would have taken Dragon 7 if I'd brought it with me! |
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andi turner | 31 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Used my knees in the upper crack, which held fast, but limited upward progression. A size 6 cam fits well, a 7 might also, an 8 doesn't! | ||
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βeta: Used my knees in the upper crack, which held fast, but limited upward progression. A size 6 cam fits well, a 7 might also, an 8 doesn't! |
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Grade: E3 5c ***
(Rhoscolyn)