A serious classic that is popular nonetheless. It used to have bolt runners which have been removed, but a single stub still exists and most people use a small wire hooked over it. Start beneath a vague cracked groove that leads onto the upper wall, about 14m left of the corner of Blue Peter. Ascend the cracked groove and then trend right to spike runners at 8m. Move delicately up and right to an undercut flake (cams and sometimes a fixed thread). Difficult moves rightwards across the flake lead to a good foothold by one of the old bolt stubs. Steady your nerves and make committing moves up towards a break - don't lunge for it, as it slopes alarmingly. Eventually you reach a ledge where the climbing eases and the top can be gained more or less direct. © Rockfax
Ron Fawcett, 1978.
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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