Rockfax Description
An adventure that has some stunning climbing in a wild situation. Start 15m right of the large corner of Heroin, below an 8m crack that leads to the right-hand end of a large ledge.
1) 4c, 9m. Climb the crack to the large ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. A belter of a pitch. Ascend the corner for 12m until a tricky move can be made right round the arete to a reasonable ledge on the wall. Follow this rising line right to the base of a steep cracked groove. Exciting climbing up this leads to a small but adequate stance.
2a) Scavenger Direct, HVS 5b, 31m. Go straight up the corner/groove to rejoin the original Scavenger small stance.
3) 4a, 18m. Follow the continuation groove to a sloping rampline that leads left to the corner and belay here below a chimney.
4) 20m. Climb the wide chimney-crack on the sidewall above. Alternatively, move left to finish up Nightrider P4. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , UK Holiday Plans , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , North Wales HVS , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , HS-HVS adventures , Routes for MCI , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Louvet 4 Jun Show βeta
βeta: DO NOT CLIMB UNTIL END OF JULY 2023. As of 21 May 2023, currently there are three razorbill nests all with eggs on route. One on the direct pitch just before moving right to belay. And two on the third pitch. Best to not climb for about 4 weeks or so at least.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: DO NOT CLIMB UNTIL END OF JULY 2023. As of 21 May 2023, currently there are three razorbill nests all with eggs on route. One on the direct pitch just before moving right to belay. And two on the third pitch. Best to not climb for about 4 weeks or so at least.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 84
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 83
Votes cast 80
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
A Dream of White Horses

Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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