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Rockfax Description
An excellent route, much better than the indirect version.
1) 5b, 43m. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Head up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2) 5b, 48m. Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right, climb it, passing a trying section to reach a flake/crack on the left. Up this (possible belay for masochists) then launch leftwards up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, Big Routes 2020, Gogarth life list, 2020/21 Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
andi turner 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like some recent rock scaring above the first little overhang. Some looseness remains. Belayed on solid spikes up to the right of the normal belay (approximately level with the top of the flake/blade, 6 feet to the right) which reduced rope drag and communication issues.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like some recent rock scaring above the first little overhang. Some looseness remains. Belayed on solid spikes up to the right of the normal belay (approximately level with the top of the flake/blade, 6 feet to the right) which reduced rope drag and communication issues.

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 91
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 90
Votes cast 83
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Atlantis/True Moments/Freebird

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)