An excellent route, much better than the original version. The route has suffered a big rockfall but isn't badly affected.
1) 5b, 43m. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Head up this then a crack with a big rock scar on its right until just past a new roof on the right where the original groove reappears and shortly after moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2) 5b, 48m. Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right and climb it to a hard move to reach a flake/crack on the left. Climb this (possible belay) then launch left up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Big Routes 2020 , Gogarth life list
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