UKH

Rockfax Description
An excellent route, much better than the original version. The route has suffered a big rockfall but isn't badly affected.
1) 5b, 43m. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Head up this then a crack with a big rock scar on its right until just past a new roof on the right where the original groove reappears and shortly after moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2) 5b, 48m. Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right and climb it to a hard move to reach a flake/crack on the left. Climb this (possible belay) then launch left up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E2 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Big Routes 2020 , Gogarth life list

Feedback

User Date Notes
gem_stone12 16 May Show βeta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
gem_stone12 16 May Show βeta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
gem_stone12 15 May Show βeta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Really awesome route! Swim beforehand was essential today.
Larry Benoy 8 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Looks to have been an incredibly recent rockfall directly above the start of P1. Still some very large and loose looking blocks around that would clear out anything/one that was unfortunate enough to be below them. If possible, look for a belay slightly further left than guidebooks might suggest just to be out of the fall line.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks to have been an incredibly recent rockfall directly above the start of P1. Still some very large and loose looking blocks around that would clear out anything/one that was unfortunate enough to be below them. If possible, look for a belay slightly further left than guidebooks might suggest just to be out of the fall line.
Tim Neill 1 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Has been a decent and recent rockfall (probably last night!) just to the right of the first pitch. Rubble all over the ledges below. Route seemed unaffected although a bit dusty low down.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has been a decent and recent rockfall (probably last night!) just to the right of the first pitch. Rubble all over the ledges below. Route seemed unaffected although a bit dusty low down.
andi turner 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Looks like some recent rock scaring above the first little overhang. Some looseness remains. Belayed on solid spikes up to the right of the normal belay (approximately level with the top of the flake/blade, 6 feet to the right) which reduced rope drag and communication issues.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Looks like some recent rock scaring above the first little overhang. Some looseness remains. Belayed on solid spikes up to the right of the normal belay (approximately level with the top of the flake/blade, 6 feet to the right) which reduced rope drag and communication issues.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 108
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 107
Votes cast 96
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Primate

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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