An excellent route, much better than the indirect version.
1) 5b, 43m. Start down and right of the first pitch of Gogarth. Climb juggy rock then the crack in the arete to join Gogarth briefly at the shallow groove. Head up this then the corner/groove above until moves left gain a belay ledge tucked in below a steep arete.
2) 5b, 48m. Gain the awkward crack in the arete from the right, climb it, passing a trying section to reach a flake/crack on the left. Up this (possible belay for masochists) then launch leftwards up a tricky groove which leads to easier ground and large spike belays. © Rockfax
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