5 pitches. Supercedes Positron with a more satisfying line. Arguably the best E5 on the Main Cliff. A proper route! A good first pitch, the best section of Positron and a stupendous 3rd pitch. Start on the large ledge 3 metres left of the Gogarth pinnacle as for Rat Race, Positron.
1. 35m. 6a. Climb steeply, bearing slightly rightwards then slightly left to the Rat Race traverse. From 5m along this, climb a shallow black groove, stepping left at its top. From a pillar up and R (cam), climb the short, ridiculously steep, golden wall, pulling left into the easier angled groove with some difficulty. Up the groove to the second Rat Race belay. Ideally, belay in an excellent position on the arete (good spikes and medium Friends) to prevent snagging in Positron crack to give a fine view of the following pitch.
2. 30m. 5c. As for Positron, pitch 3. Reverse Dinosaur to belay at an old peg, level with the Positron overhang. Large cams and wires for belay.
3. 40m. 5c. Step down and teeter left along the obvious ledge into a groove (on Mammoth) and up this to a small ledge. Go left across the steep wall on the obvious line of holds, or down and left (indirect, but a little easier) into Citadel. Up this to small ledges on the left. Across these and up a short corner (Graduation Ceremony) then move left across a very sloping ledge, around an outside corner to a large sloping ledge and belay.
4. 35m. 5b. Climb the steep groove to the left of the belay to a shallow cave. Take the right hand crack to finish.
Alec Sharp, Chris Dale, 1975.

Ticklists

Main Cliff Big E5s , James' 2015 Summer. , The Seaside (Oh I Do Like To Be Beside) , Extreme Girdle

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