Rockfax Description
The first route climbed on Gogarth. Start at the pinnacle that blocks the way leftwards to the other routes.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the wide crack/groove on the right-hand side of the pinnacle to its top.
2) 5b, 18m. Descend from the pinnacle and traverse right across the wall and round an arete to the base of a steep groove. Climb the groove to a ledge and traverse back left to a sloping ledge above the first stance.
3) 4c, 18m. From the left side of the ledge, climb a crack to easier ground. Continue up and right to below another groove.
4) 4b, 18m. Climb up the groove in a great position to a belay at the top of the upper pinnacle.
5) 5b, 40m. Traverse right across the steep wall and make difficult moves up to reach a thin crack. Good holds soon appear and are followed to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Varied in style and standard. Exposed on pitch 5.
The very first climb on Gogarth.
Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen 04/Apr/1964.
Hard Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Very good routes in the UK , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Ingle Routes , AMC Uni Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Going Up Rocks , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , York University Students path to greatness , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Hard Rock 2020 , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 32 By 32 , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains.
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Tim Neill | 1 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Has been a pretty decent and recent rockfall just right of the first pitch of this and Resolution Direct. Stacks of rubble all over the ledges below the start. The climbs themselves are fine if a little dusty still. I’m sure it’ll all clean up with a few big waves! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Has been a pretty decent and recent rockfall just right of the first pitch of this and Resolution Direct. Stacks of rubble all over the ledges below the start. The climbs themselves are fine if a little dusty still. I’m sure it’ll all clean up with a few big waves! |
||||
Snowtime | 30 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: differcult access steep walk in, committed route, awesome setting | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: differcult access steep walk in, committed route, awesome setting |
||||
charlie broe | 16 Aug, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitches 4 and 2 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Lead pitches 4 and 2 |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)