112m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first route climbed on Gogarth. Start at the pinnacle that blocks the way leftwards to the other routes.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the wide crack/groove on the right-hand side of the pinnacle to its top.
2) 5b, 18m. Descend from the pinnacle and traverse right across the wall and round an arete to the base of a steep groove. Climb the groove to a ledge and traverse back left to a sloping ledge above the first stance.
3) 4c, 18m. From the left side of the ledge, climb a crack to easier ground. Continue up and right to below another groove.
4) 4b, 18m. Climb up the groove in a great position to a belay at the top of the upper pinnacle.
5) 5b, 40m. Traverse right across the steep wall and make difficult moves up to reach a thin crack. Good holds soon appear and are followed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Varied in style and standard. Exposed on pitch 5. The very first climb on Gogarth. A fine route with varied and interesting climbing. Start on the right side of the large pinnacle at the right hand end of the main cliff.
1. 20m. 4b. Up the wide crack in the corner to belay on top of the pinnacle.
2. 20m. 5a. Step back down a little, then briskly rightwards across a steep wall and around the arête to the sanctuary of a shallow groove. Up this, bearing left around an overlap, then move left to a large sloping ledge directly above the previous belay.
3. 35m. 4c. Climb the short crack above the left end of the ledge then trend rightwards to a good ledge (possible belay). Up the steep groove, the right side of a large flake, to a stance on top of the flake.
4. 40m. 5b. Go rightwards (7m) to a ledge below a steep crack. Up this, not as positive as one would like to start with, then continue in the same line to the top.
Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen, 1964.

Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen 04/Apr/1964.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Very good routes in the UK , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Ingle Routes , AMC Uni Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Going Up Rocks , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , York University Students path to greatness , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 33 By 33 , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , E1-E3 adventure routes: seacliffs, outcrops just not mountains. , North Wales isnt just slate apparently

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tim Neill 1 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Has been a pretty decent and recent rockfall just right of the first pitch of this and Resolution Direct. Stacks of rubble all over the ledges below the start. The climbs themselves are fine if a little dusty still. I’m sure it’ll all clean up with a few big waves!
βeta?
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βeta: Has been a pretty decent and recent rockfall just right of the first pitch of this and Resolution Direct. Stacks of rubble all over the ledges below the start. The climbs themselves are fine if a little dusty still. I’m sure it’ll all clean up with a few big waves!
Snowtime 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: differcult access steep walk in, committed route, awesome setting
βeta?
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βeta: differcult access steep walk in, committed route, awesome setting
charlie broe 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitches 4 and 2
βeta?
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βeta: Lead pitches 4 and 2

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E2
Mid E2
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 180
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 132
Votes cast 173
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
True Moments/Freebird

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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