UKH

112m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first route climbed here and by far the most popular route on the Main Cliff. Start at the pinnacle that blocks the way leftwards to the other routes.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the wide crack/groove on the right-hand side of the pinnacle to its top.
2) 5b, 18m. You are aiming for a ledge only 8m above you, but you have to climb three sides of a square to reach it. Start by descending from the pinnacle and traversing right across the wall and round an arete to the base of a steep groove. Climb the groove to a ledge and traverse back left to a sloping ledge.
3) 4c, 18m. Head up a short crack leading up from the left side of the ledge to reach easier ground, and continue up and right to below another groove.
4) 4b, 18m. Climb up the groove in a great position to belay at the top of the upper pinnacle.
5) 5b, 40m. Traverse right across the steep wall, and make difficult moves up to reach a thin crack. Thankfully good holds soon appear and are followed to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Varied in style and standard. Exposed on pitch 5.
The very first climb on Gogarth.

Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen 04/Apr/1964.

Ticklists

Hard Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Very good routes in the UK , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E1 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist , Caff's Cool E1s List , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Ingle Routes , AMC Uni Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Extreme 2018 , Adventure ticklist 2018 , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , UK Holiday Plans , Pre-MIA Wishlist , Going Up Rocks , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Hard Rock 2020 , York University Students path to greatness , The E1 UK Roadtrip , Target Routes 2019/2020 , May Trip Target List , Hard Rock 2020 , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 32 By 32 , Wales Trip - 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tim Neill 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Has been a pretty decent and recent rockfall just right of the first pitch of this and Resolution Direct. Stacks of rubble all over the ledges below the start. The climbs themselves are fine if a little dusty still. I’m sure it’ll all clean up with a few big waves!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Has been a pretty decent and recent rockfall just right of the first pitch of this and Resolution Direct. Stacks of rubble all over the ledges below the start. The climbs themselves are fine if a little dusty still. I’m sure it’ll all clean up with a few big waves!
Snowtime 30 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: differcult access steep walk in, committed route, awesome setting
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: differcult access steep walk in, committed route, awesome setting
charlie broe 16 Aug, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lead pitches 4 and 2
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lead pitches 4 and 2

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 171
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 123
Votes cast 163
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
North West Passage

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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