The first route climbed here and by far the most popular route on the Main Cliff. Start at the pinnacle that blocks the way leftwards to the other routes.
1) 4b, 18m. Climb the wide crack/groove on the right-hand side of the pinnacle to its top.
2) 5b, 18m. You are aiming for a ledge only 8m above you, but you have to climb three sides of a square to reach it. Start by descending from the pinnacle and traversing right across the wall and round an arete to the base of a steep groove. Climb the groove to a ledge and traverse back left to a sloping ledge.
3) 4c, 18m. Head up a short crack leading up from the left side of the ledge to reach easier ground, and continue up and right to below another groove.
4) 4b, 18m. Climb up the groove in a great position to belay at the top of the upper pinnacle.
5) 5b, 40m. Traverse right across the steep wall, and make difficult moves up to reach a thin crack. Thankfully good holds soon appear and are followed to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Varied in style and standard. Exposed on pitch 5.
The very first climb on Gogarth.
Baz Ingle and Martin Boysen 04/Apr/1964.
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