UKH

Rockfax Description
A good introduction to the Main Cliff E5s. The name comes from the long neck and a small brain you'll need for this route. Start beneath the right-hand chimney.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the chimney to where it closes at a steepening. Jam up the short crack (and jam some gear in!) and leave the recess making a hard move to gain the wall on the left. A couple more moves lead to gear and easier climbing which then leads to a small stance.
2) 5c, 30m. Step right into the steep groove, and climb this on reasonable but somewhat creaky holds to good ledges.
3) 5c, 30m. Another creaky pitch that is steep and committing. From the belay, head up and right to reach a short steep wall, climb this to reach the blank corner. Move out right to climb some grooves on the arete, exiting up a shallow groove on the left. Scramble well up the slope to belay on a small rock wall over on the left. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Main Cliff Big E5s, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Keith Scholey 21 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Scary third pitch.
Show beta
βeta: Scary third pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 10
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Ground Up
DNF
Repeated
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Magellan's Wall

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Rhoscolyn)
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