A good introduction to the Main Cliff E5s. The name comes from the long neck and a small brain you'll need for this route. Start beneath the right-hand chimney.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the chimney to where it closes at a steepening. Jam up the short crack (and jam some gear in!) and leave the recess making a hard move to gain the wall on the left. A couple more moves lead to gear and easier climbing which then leads to a small stance.
2) 5c, 30m. Step right into the steep groove, and climb this on reasonable but somewhat creaky holds to good ledges.
3) 5c, 30m. Another creaky pitch that is steep and committing. From the belay, head up and right to reach a short steep wall, climb this to reach the blank corner. Move out right to climb some grooves on the arete, exiting up a shallow groove on the left. Scramble well up the slope to belay on a small rock wall over on the left. © Rockfax
Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Main Cliff Big E5s, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), James' Summer Ticklist
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