UKH

Rockfax Description
A long girdle of this magnificent wall that takes in the atmosphere of the place at a relatively amenable grade. The climbing is mostly pretty straightforward apart from the crux wall on P3. Start by traversing below the Upper Tier, then make a hair-raising descent down a vegetated rake to find a small flake next to a slab that looks like it leads to oblivion. It is possible (maybe advisable) to abseil to this point from the bottom of Bezel - see next page for overview.
1) 4a, 35m. Move out onto the slab and follow the easy traverse line left and slightly down to the arete. Below is a short chimney. Descend this and belay on the ledge at its base.
2) 4b, 38m. Climb down and left to a massive flake, and follow it below a tower and then back up the other side. Continue following the flake left past its apex. Belay here.
3) 5a, 40m. Make a tricky move up the steep wall to gain the slab above. Then follow this slab/ramp left until you pass a possible small stance below a groove, continue traversing left a few more metres to below a chimney/groove, and ascend this to belay in a narrow corridor on the left.
4) 4b, 24m. Move through the corridor and turn right. Follow the easy ground up to a short groove, which leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.

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friendzone1234 21 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 26
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 27
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Scavenger

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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