UKH

Rockfax Description
An excellent route with two contrasting pitches: one steep and burly, the other more balancy and delicate. Start by abseiling from the far right-hand end of the promontory (looking out) to a square-cut ledge that is usually a good distance above the swell. Make a belay that overlooks the North Stack wall.
1) 4c, 35m. From the belay, move down and left to gain a steep but juggy flake/crack-line. Storm up this on ample holds to reach a small stance on rotten pegs and small wires.
2) 4c, 20m. Step up and right, pulling over a bulge to reach a ledge. Follow the good footholds round to the right to finish up an easy groove. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, North Wales HVS, Target Routes 2019/2020, May Trip Target List, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship., Summer 2021, Welsh Roadtrip

Feedback

User Date Notes
SteveSBlake 1 Jun Show βeta
βeta: This is a fantastic route with a fun approach and great climbing. The belay pegs however are significantly past their sell-by date. The equalised small nuts are not that inspiring. You really can't afford to fall off the 'foot traverse'! My son considered it 'The most intense bit of walking I've ever done'. One solid new peg would make a huge difference.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a fantastic route with a fun approach and great climbing. The belay pegs however are significantly past their sell-by date. The equalised small nuts are not that inspiring. You really can't afford to fall off the 'foot traverse'! My son considered it 'The most intense bit of walking I've ever done'. One solid new peg would make a huge difference.
Alan Blakeman 5 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Later start in the day should ensure the bottom section dries out completely? Hardest move was onto the ledge at the start of the second pitch?
 
Show beta
βeta: Later start in the day should ensure the bottom section dries out completely? Hardest move was onto the ledge at the start of the second pitch?
Alan Blakeman 3 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Double ropes mean you can leave the second in effect a top rope for the initial traverse. Top of pitch one I belayed hanging comfortably on the left of the ledge round a lowish flake (backed up with the 2 pegs, an old wire & another nut. 2nd belayed on the flake on the R making it easy for me to lead thro'. That 1st move onto the obvious flat ledge was quite awkward.
 
Show beta
βeta: Double ropes mean you can leave the second in effect a top rope for the initial traverse. Top of pitch one I belayed hanging comfortably on the left of the ledge round a lowish flake (backed up with the 2 pegs, an old wire & another nut. 2nd belayed on the flake on the R making it easy for me to lead thro'. That 1st move onto the obvious flat ledge was quite awkward.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 163
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 155
Votes cast 148
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Phagocyte

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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