UKH

15m.

Rockfax Description
Clean climbing throughout. One brief hard move at the top to a massive jug. © Rockfax

FA. J.Parsons 10/Aug/1997.

Ticklists

Portland

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User Date Notes
HanMitch 10 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Loose block around the third bolt. Removed top of block which had evidently been cranked on A LOT and X’ed lower block. Will need to be removed with a crowbar in due course.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Loose block around the third bolt. Removed top of block which had evidently been cranked on A LOT and X’ed lower block. Will need to be removed with a crowbar in due course.
Gear Lover 27 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The final jug is very much there and not reach dependent i’d say (I’m 5’7” with short arms). Clipping the last quickdraw is height-dependent however in my opinion. I couldn’t clip it from the ledge, and failing to clip the rope/draw and the rockover move in one sequence (right arm gets too pumped). Have any short climbers managed to figure this one out?
 
Show beta
βeta: The final jug is very much there and not reach dependent i’d say (I’m 5’7” with short arms). Clipping the last quickdraw is height-dependent however in my opinion. I couldn’t clip it from the ledge, and failing to clip the rope/draw and the rockover move in one sequence (right arm gets too pumped). Have any short climbers managed to figure this one out?
markju 11 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: first time sport climbing, what a good route, disagree with arm-span dependent, i heel hook and pulled up hard... but i could not see the JUG until you go for it and it's there!!
 
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βeta: first time sport climbing, what a good route, disagree with arm-span dependent, i heel hook and pulled up hard... but i could not see the JUG until you go for it and it's there!!
Pythonist 10 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Yep, a one move wonder, but what a wonderful move it is... A fair step harder than Future Imperfect (6a+ next door), but the same style, so one to progress on to if you've done FI in good form. Top move more like english 5c, but I'll be willing to bet it is VERY arm-span dependent!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Yep, a one move wonder, but what a wonderful move it is... A fair step harder than Future Imperfect (6a+ next door), but the same style, so one to progress on to if you've done FI in good form. Top move more like english 5c, but I'll be willing to bet it is VERY arm-span dependent!

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
Votes cast 46
Votes cast 44
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

No Place for Mambas

Grade: 6b ***
(Wallsend South)
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