UKH

81m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Delicate, sustained and excellent. The route is not well protected and is prone to seepage on the initial crack and upper crux - care required if at all damp, especially on the upper part of P2. Approach by following Indirect Start to Senior's Ridge to its traverse then continue direct to the base of the clean grey ribs.
1) 4a, 35m. Start up the main corner for 20m then trend left across the bubbly slab to a rib. Balance up this to a small stance and high belay under the overlap.
2) 4b, 40m. Climb through the bulge then move left and head up the vague rib on good holds to the overlap high above. Jig left and right through this and finish up the final slab, carefully avoiding any wetness. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock , The 100 Best UK VS routes? , North Wales Rock Graded List , Best slab climbs of the UK , Menlove Routes , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , UK Lonely Leads , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Snowdonia in Chains , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Jonesy's leg day ticklist , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Welsh Classic Rock Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
iainJ 26 Jul Show βeta
βeta: P2 is more than 40m, more like 48 by the time you've reached a solid belay block. Trying on a 40 will lead you to a very uncomfortable belay in a damp corner or runout slab.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P2 is more than 40m, more like 48 by the time you've reached a solid belay block. Trying on a 40 will lead you to a very uncomfortable belay in a damp corner or runout slab.
ash_sak 31 Mar Show βeta
βeta: Dire! Possibly got completely off track after the bulge. Maybe thrown off trying to avoid a loose flake that’s previously/still used for a runner. Maybe get accurate route info/photos before heading up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dire! Possibly got completely off track after the bulge. Maybe thrown off trying to avoid a loose flake that’s previously/still used for a runner. Maybe get accurate route info/photos before heading up.
runestone 3 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2. Loose small flake followed by loose small V shaped crack just after you pull over the bulge. And bold top section.
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2. Loose small flake followed by loose small V shaped crack just after you pull over the bulge. And bold top section.
dunky 27 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Only did the top pitch as we came up from grey rib
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Only did the top pitch as we came up from grey rib
Rog Wilko Jun, 1996 Show βeta
βeta: Great route that it is, I think this is still undergraded at VS. Pitch two is sustained 4c with very little gear. That's HVS in my book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route that it is, I think this is still undergraded at VS. Pitch two is sustained 4c with very little gear. That's HVS in my book.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 57
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Great Slab

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Clogwyn Du'r Arddu (Cloggy))

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