UKH

Rockfax Description
Great rock and superb situations plus delicate climbing up the rib that is the central feature here. Start on the left-hand side of the arete, below a short groove. Approach by following Indirect Start to Senior's Ridge to its traverse then continue direct to the base of the clean grey ribs.
1) 5a, 30m. Make a hard pull into the groove and climb it until you can pull round onto the slab, which leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. Balance up the arete to a ledge and a possible stance. No real gear on this section and a committing move near the top. Climb the tricky crack that splits the arete and tries to shove you off leftwards. Chimney the top section and finish up the short wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, AMC Uni Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

Feedback

User Date Notes
RobertHucknall 13 Jun Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is pretty much a (brilliant) 4c solo, bad gear mid height. Sketchy flake for belay on the ledge, not sure what it'd hold. 5a pitch is outstanding.
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is pretty much a (brilliant) 4c solo, bad gear mid height. Sketchy flake for belay on the ledge, not sure what it'd hold. 5a pitch is outstanding.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 38
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Fang

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Craig Bwlch y Moch (Tremadog))
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