Great rock and superb situations plus delicate climbing up the rib that is the central feature here. Start on the left-hand side of the arete, below a short groove. Approach by following Indirect Start to Senior's Ridge to its traverse then continue direct to the base of the clean grey ribs.
1) 5a, 30m. Make a hard pull into the groove and climb it until you can pull round onto the slab, which leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. Balance up the arete to a ledge and a possible stance. No real gear on this section and a committing move near the top. Climb the tricky crack that splits the arete and tries to shove you off leftwards. Chimney the top section and finish up the short wall above. © Rockfax
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