Rockfax Description
Great rock and superb situations plus delicate climbing up the rib that is the central feature here. Start on the left-hand side of the arete, below a short groove. Approach by following Indirect Start to Senior's Ridge to its traverse then continue direct to the base of the clean grey ribs.
1) 5a, 30m. Make a hard pull into the groove and climb it until you can pull round onto the slab, which leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. Balance up the arete to a ledge and a possible stance. No real gear on this section and a committing move near the top. Climb the tricky crack that splits the arete and tries to shove you off leftwards. Chimney the top section and finish up the short wall above. © Rockfax
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Bold Tradprenticeship , Consolidation VS-HVS
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lankcroft | 1 May, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: The line on the ground up topo for P2 is hopelessly wrong (at least in our version, the one with the axe on the front cover). The description is correct though. You want to be much further left than indicated after the initial bold section (once you get to the "ledge on the left arete" described in the text.) From here the crack widens before jinking back right literally on the left arete. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: The line on the ground up topo for P2 is hopelessly wrong (at least in our version, the one with the axe on the front cover). The description is correct though. You want to be much further left than indicated after the initial bold section (once you get to the "ledge on the left arete" described in the text.) From here the crack widens before jinking back right literally on the left arete. |
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| RobertHucknall | 13 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is pretty much a (brilliant) 4c solo, bad gear mid height. Sketchy flake for belay on the ledge, not sure what it'd hold. 5a pitch is outstanding. | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is pretty much a (brilliant) 4c solo, bad gear mid height. Sketchy flake for belay on the ledge, not sure what it'd hold. 5a pitch is outstanding. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Glyder Fawr
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Gollum
Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Dinas Mot)