One of the better hard scrambles in this book, with sustained climbing from the start of the gully to the top. Much of the scrambling is within the confines of the gully. It is best enjoyed on a hot dry day as, although south facing, the confines of the gully provide much shade throughout. The rock is often slippy and requires concentration and care not to slip, but it does dry enough to be climbable after a couple of dry days. Take care if there are others on this route since there is a danger of dislodging loose rocks. Park at the small second lay-by on the right of Llanberis Pass. Take the leftward-rising path to the base of a cliff (Carreg Wastad). Just before a small buttress on the path, head straight up towards the base of the gully.
1) Go up a few steps to reach some trees. Continue to an impasse at a smooth moss-covered slab below a chockstone (worth 3+ if climbed direct). 6m below this, a short diversion left out of the gully leads around and back into the gully above.
2) Continue up some steps, passing a few jammed blocks, before a jammed boulder blocks the way again. Climb this on its left on steep juggy holds before a final challenging step leads to a change in angle of the gully.
3) Continue on up to where the walls start to move in again. A tricky step past a jammed boulder leads to an seemingly inescapable alcove.
4) The wall on the right is the only way out and it is scary in the wet. Start a few metres from the back of the alcove and head up and right on small but positive holds to reach a second alcove below some rock columns.
5) From the second alcove, climb the watercourse to a third alcove. Exit this one up some dark fragile conglomerate rock on the right, 8m out from the back of the bay.
6) The gully now curves to the right and the rock around you is spectacular and best appreciated from above. Where a rib divides the gully, take the right-hand one to reach a broad gully with orange scree at its base. Care is needed here to avoid knocking rocks down the confines of the gully, so avoid the base of the gully by going up the ribs on its left or right.
7) When the gully peters out, go up to a grassy area - the views from here are incredible. Directly above the gully is the start of a small ridge. Follow this up and then back left to the base of a small cliff. Just to the right of the cliff is a scree-filled gully. Climb this with care to reach the grassy summit of Esgair Felen. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Can be more of a waterfall... good fun !
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